Gavrion, Andros. 21 Aug. 2011.

Here we sit in Gavrion, Andros. It is Sunday evening , blowing a gale and we have been stuck on board at anchor now since Tuesday last, five days ago! Yesterday the wind peaked at 53 knots , full storm force but luckily the anchor held!
We aren't used to such sustained periods of bad weather - at least in Ireland, gales generally only last under 24 hours and even if another one is coming close behind there is at least a short calm before the next storm. Here, the wind is relentless. On the positive side, we are getting all our old tins of food used up and we can't spend any money, but the incessant salt spray and driven dust has covered the boat in saltcaked dirt and the stainless steel is in need of a clean and polish again. The eggs have gone, bread long gone, chocolate gone along with the nutsand crisps. Some of the rice had weevils and had to go. Cheese , milk and butter are reaching danger level so we are hoping for a calmer spell tomorrow and perhaps a run ashore for supplies!  Yoh!

Gavrion, Andros. 18 Aug. 2011

Here we are in the anchorage of Gavrion , Andros hanging on the hook in gale force Meltemi winds, steady at 35 knots and gusting to 40kts. All around us is white water and breaking crests.
This morning we let out more anchor chain so now we have 50 metres out in only 4metres of water, but we seem to be well hooked by our New Zealand anchor.
We had a pre dawn start to make the 55 mile trip here from Skyros and towards the end we had some big breaking seas in the Stenon Kafirevs channelnorth of Andros, which has a bad reputation in heavy weather. Fortunately we arrived here in Andros before the Meltemi really got up a full head of steam! At present we are stuck on the boat as we can't launch the dinghy safely in the wind, so we sit it out and hope for calmer conditions. Even swimming is out as the normally clear blue water, is churned up to a zero viz brown colour!

Panayia. 10 Aug. 2011.

The weather forecast, grib files, we received in Khalkidhiki indicate that bad weather is expected soon, so we decide to load up with supplies and water and head south to Panayia before the weather changes for the worse.
The wind is light and we have to motorsail all the way, entering into Planitis harbour through a narrow gap some 80 metres across. Once inside we are completely landlocked and find that the island is uninhabited except for a number of wild goats, no wifi! no phone signals! just hf radio.
We got well anchored eventually on the mud bottom and awaited the predicted blow which arrived at midnight with strong gusts up to 40 knots from all points of the compass. We had little sleep during the night but we did get Balu well washed with a deluge of rain which cleared most of the desert dust from the rigging. Dawn arrived at last and we are still ok and the goats are still here! However we find that the water we picked up in Port Koufo is brackish and undrinkable! Still it will do for washing.

Passage to Khalkidhiki. 7 Aug. 2011

We roused before dawn for the 53 mile trip from Limnos to Port Koufo on the central Khalkidhiki peninsular. Once out at sea we had a nice light breeze on the beam to drive us and we settled in for a pleasant sail. Then we noticed we had a guest aboard - a small hopoe bird and it took up station on the coachroof above the main hatch. It looked pretty tired so we gave it personal space for the rest of the journey. As the afternoon progressed the wind started to die and we started the engine and noticed the hopoe was gone. However half an hour later we saw him flying around Balu and he returned and took up station again at the main cabin hatch. As we arrived in Port Koufo towards evening we found we were in the company of 7 charter yachts! After we anchored the wee hopoe set off for the wilds of mainland Greece.

Balu's stowaway Hopoe	I'll sit where I like!
Balu in Port Koufo, Khalkidhiki	Sunrise over Khalkidhiki

Myrina, Limnos. 2 Aug. 2011

We arrived in Myrina a few days ago and are anchored snuggly on a fine sand bottom in clear water. The harbour is well sheltered and clean. The locals swim here from the beach and glory be there are working showers all along the beach. So not only can we shower but with a funnel and hose we can top up our freshwater tanks.
Today we took a trip up to the castle on the hill . It is medieval I guess but with various adaptions for cannon and it certainly commands the harbour approach.We did the castle walk in the morning to avoid the heat and in the evenings we go ashore for a beer and a meal and sample some of the local wines in Aristidios' wine shop.
 

Aristidis in the wine and cheese shop, Mirina	Balu from the castle, Mirina
Mirina Castle, Lemnos	Mirina Harbour, Lemnos
Tall ship leaving Lemnos	The Coastguard Lifeboat, Lemnos
View from the castle ramparts, Mirina

Postcard from Lemnos 27 July 2011

We are anchored precariously on a bed of green seagrass in Moudros bay in Lemnos on of the most northerly Greek islands and the nearest to the Dardanelles.
It was from Moudros Bay that the Allied fleet set out to attack the Turks in Galipolli in 1915, and it was here that the allies had their base and hospital during the campaign.
We took a walk out of the village here and eventually discovered the well tended Commonwealth war cemetery, we walked amongst the grave stones in the heat of the sun with the bees busily searching for nectar amongst the clover. It is peaceful here now for these young men who fought and died almost one hundred years ago. Young men from Australia, New Zealand, Ireland, England, Scotland and Wales their average ages only around 23 years. Sad to think of them dying so far from those who loved them.

Postcard from Lesbos 24 July 2011

We have left Apothikes cove in Lesbos on our way to a larger town Sigri to get supplies. To exit we have to negotiate a winding but well buoyed channel with dangerous shoals either side, eventually we are clear and as there is no wind we are motoring along the Lesbos coast and enjoying the view. There seems to be a lot of shipping here, presumably coming up and down the Bosphorus from the Black sea. However we keep an eye on the shipping using our AIS reciever which displays (when it is in the mood!) the details of nearby shipping. Imagine our surprise to see the European Mariner pop up on the screen! This is the Larne to Troon ferry!  I can't resist calling them on VHF and sure enough there is a Scottish officer on watch who explains that the vessel has been sold and is going to a mediterannean yard for work! I thought it prudent not to mention that Balu had been in collision with her sister ship the European Causeway in Larne harbour a few years back!

The European Mariner - a bit of history

European Mariner was launched in 1978 as Salahala for the Salahala Shipping Company. She was chartered by Gilvani for use on the Genoa - Malta - Pireus - Alexandria route. In 1990, she was sold to Crescent Shipping and renamed Merchant Valiant and put into service on the Warrenpoint - Heysham route.Merchant Valiant was replaced on this route by the Merchant Victor and was put into service on the Larne - Ardrossan route, replacing the Belard on that route. She was sold to Pandoro in 1995 and renamed Lion on 15 October 1995.  In January 1998, she was sold to P&O Irish Sea Ferries and her name was changed to European Highlander. on 8 November 1999 she ran aground at Ardrossan. A new route was opened in 2001 running from Troon instead of Ardrossan, and European Highlander was renamed European Mariner on 30 June 2001 as the Highlander name was required for a new ship being introduced to the new route. European Mariner was replaced on the Larne -
Troon route in January 2002 by the European Navigator. As she was spare, European Mariner spent time on charter to various shipping companies in 2002, including Color Line, Commodore Ferries, the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company, Norse Island Ferries and Seatruck Ferries. Ports and places visited during this time include Aberdeen, Barrow in Furness, the Channel Islands, Douglas, Fleetwood, Heysham, Hirtshals, Kristiansand, Portsmouth, the Shetland Islands, and Warrenpoint. On 6 November 2002 a lorry was washed overboard in storm conditions whilst European Mariner was on the Aberdeen - Lerwick route and she diverted to Invergordon. On 2 December, she came to the aid of the Merchant Venture which suffered an engine failue during a gale. Merchant Venture was escorted to Lerwick. In January 2003, European Mariner returned to service on the Larne - Troon route, replacing the European Navigator, which was uneconomic to operate on this route.

In 2006, European Mariner suffered damage to one of her propellor shafts in an accident at Troon. She ran for a few weeks on only one engine until repairs could be made at Birkenhead.[5] In 2007, European Mariner was chartered to transport blades for wind turbines from Esbjerg that were destined for use on the turbines being erected as part of the Scroby Sands wind farm.

Postcard from the Aegean 20 07 11

On the 20th July we left Paros and set off northwards towards Lesbos. Our route took us close past the eastern end of Mykonos Island and  shortly after we passed the Island we were rewarded with a sighting of monachus monachus (The Mediterranean Monk Seal) The most endangered seal in the world with a world population of fewer than 600 ( perhaps only 450). It is a very large and dark coloured seal was inclined to keep its distance from us, but we did watch it,  from a distance, for several minutes before motoring on north and leaving it to its fate, which we fervently hope will not be extinction!

Postcard from Aliki on Paros 13 07 11
 

We know it's bonfire season back home but here in Paros the set the whole town on fire! It seems that some scrub and olive groves caught ablaze and fanned by the meltemi winds was sweeping towards the town. Now here is the rub! there is basically no water on the island so they call in the aerial fire brigade who duly arrived from somewhere in about an hour. They are seaplanes and land/ swoop down to the sea filling with water and then take off and bomb the base of the fire. So apart from getting the whole town covered in smuts we had quite a live display and as far as we know no one was injured.

Paros on fire:

Fire sea planes:

Gale warning:

Message in a bottle:

Anchor well set:

Postcard from Epano Kofonissia 08 07 2011
 

We set sail from Skhinousa in mirror calm conditions, bound towards the island of Dhenousa en route for the Turkish coast. However "The best laid plans of men and mice!"sometimes go wrong and so it was after about an hour we found ourselves battering into 25 to 30 knots of "Meltemi" headwinds with the speed down to under 2 knots. There was nothing for it but to turn about and seek shelter which we found in a little crowded fishing harbour in Kofonissia. One of the fishermen indicated a spare mooring we could use and with some difficulty we were eventually secure in the pleasant little harbour.

Postcard from Skhinousa 05 07 2011

One would be forgiven for thinking that Skhinousa was a chronic skin condition, however it is a beautiful, small, almost unheard of Greek Island about 5miles south of Naxos. The harbour is a narrow inlet and we are moored with our anchor in the middle and two long lines ashore fastened to rocks. We went ashore today and walked up the the picturesque main settlement or "Chora" on the summit of the island, and admired the narrow cobbled streets and the ubiquitous donkeys.

Postcard from Kofanisia July 2011

Postcard from Agios Nikoloas 12 06 11

After 12,000 miles Balu finally gets a new coat of Antifouling paint to keep the worms, barnacles and molluscs at bay. The antifouling paint we applied in New Zealand turned out to be very soft and easily eroded away from the hull. By 6,000 miles in Singapore the bottom was covered in limpet like molluscs which had to be scraped off underwater, Malaysia then turned out to be a haven for barnacles! The Indian ocean and red sea saw the rise of the green hairlike weed. When we arrived in the Mediterranean the local fish ate off the hairlike weed but marine worms took over the hull instead.Still a new coat of paint will we hope see us through the remaining 4,000 miles home.

Postcard from the Marina 06 06 11
 

Balu finally gets a lift out of the water! This has not happened since New Zealand and is a pretty rare occurance for Balu because in her home port of Larne Co Antrim she comes up the slipway on her cradle on wheels. In most of the world boats like Balu are removed from the water using a Travel lift like the one pictured! This time was also a first for us because we had to put Balu into the travel lift backwards! The alternative was to take down the forestay so it was a "No Brainer" Its always a bit unnerving watching your pride and joy suspended in mid air by two straps. but in any case she came to no harm and her antifouling can start.

POSTCARD FROM CRETE Sun 05 June 2011
 

Here we sit safe and secure in Agios Nikolaos marina Crete, it's bright and sunny and 31˚C in the cabin.
Now "Bravo Group", our convoy through the Gulf of Aden and Red Sea, has dispersed and we are alone again. Scot Free is sailing past Mount Etna in Italy and Gillaroo has departed Crete for Gibraltar only Spirit of Nina remains here laid up for the summer beside Balu. Of course Matelot is out there somewhere. It is sad to have the team split up but we all knew it would happen sooner or later.
Yesterday Blue Cristal arrived alongside us directly from Suez she is easily recognisable as a long distancer by the rows of diesel drums along her rails. She has also run the gauntlet through the Gulf of Aden and will be glad to have reached civilization. The Skipper tells us they also met the yacht Quest in Cochin after we left.
Today's task is to start to see if the bottom can be scraped clear of marine worm casts to continue sailing!

Postcard from Kastelorizo 29 04 11

Kastelorizo is a small Greek Island which lies about 3 miles off the Turkish coast (I know I had never heard of it either!) It lies about 160 miles from Cyprus and so we decided to make a stop there to break up the run to Rhodes. A really delightful spot it turned out to be! We anchored stern to the quay Med style right beside a jetty and one of the local tavernas. So Beer O'Clock would find us sitting quayside enjoying beer and Greek cuisine with Balu watching on.

Postcard from Paphos 26 04 11
 

The port of Paphos on Cyprus is an historic location and during our stay we take a stroll around the site of an ancient roman palace. This world heritage site covers perhaps around 50 or more hectares and has some of the best preserved mosaics in the world. It is nice to walk round an ancient ruin without being chased by street vendors. We all are enjoying our stopover in Cyprus but time and weather are pressing and Bravo group must cast off and head west towards Greece.

Postcard from Cyprus 24 04 11

We are underway from Egypt towards Cyprus closehauled with the wind on port bow, gradually the wind eases but it is a pleasant sail but we start to feel the cold! night falls and a gibbous moon rises over the sea Early in the morning we pass the point where our latitude and longitude have the same value 32deg 27.783n 32deg 27.783e. On the second night out the wind falls very light and the engine refuses to start. After changing the fuel filter and cleaning the water separator the engine is still sick! turns out that the lift pump strainer is also blocked! At last the engine is running again "what a sweet sound!" so much for Sudanese fuel!
In Calm conditions we approach Paphos harbour on Cyprus and are guided alongside "Scot free". Seems like we have arrived in heaven! I feel like kissing the ground! everyone is friendly and our pirate passage is really behind us well and truly.

Postcard from the Suez Canal Day 2 - 22 04 11

In Ishmalia we are charged $23 to moor up to the quay and confined to the port area because we have already cleared immigration in Suez, and are technically no longer in Egypt. We find a small cafe on the dock and spend the last of our Egyptian money on pizza and some soda waters. Early next morning is Marion's birthday, one to remember! The pilots arrive and we are underway again. Hassan is our pilot (he is the father of the cafe owner) and he doesn't speak much english! A shower of rain has the pilot requesting a raincoat (which we will never see again!).
This time we have southbound ships to deal with! The passage is uneventful and as we approach Port Said the lead yachts are directed into dock for an army inspection! We just have to drop the pilot off onto his launch with his baksheesh, my coat and a pair of socks!  The Pilot launch ranges alongside Balu, from its gunwhales bent metal bars protrude so I am anxious to avoid contact! The pilot launch helmsman is more interested in baksheesh. Eventually after "Words are spoken!" they veer away and we are told to proceed to sea!
We head out at last into the Mediteranean with a force 4 NW headwind, however as we do so the engine splutters to a halt! But what the heck! we are sailing and free of the baksheesh culture at last!

Postcard from Suez Canal Day 1 - 21 04 11

In the pre dawn our pilot arrives and pandemonium ensues as all four boats try to get lines cleared and underway at the same time! Our pilot is Sabri and we are soon motoring out of Port Suez marina and northwards up the canal towards Ishmalia. Dawn breaks and we are passed by a couple of fishing boats northbound, however the main body of northbound ships will start up the canal and overtake us during the next few hours, so we need to keep close to west bank of the canal.
The canal is basically cut straight through the desert and spoil banked up on either side. Nothing much relieves the boring vista except for the regular kilometer markings and the frequent army posts with pontoon bridges hauled up on the west bank, ready for use in the event of an attack on Egypt. We do however spot a desert fox with large ears heading for her den from which two cute cubs emerged and started to frolic.
The passage of the canal is done over two days with an overnight stop in Ishmalia in the Bitter Lakes. In the early afternoon we arrive in Ishmalia where we hand over Baksheesh to our pilot $20 some cigarettes and an old mobile phone! that is the way of life here in Egypt.

POSTCARD FROM GIZA 19 04 11

After an unplanned flight from Luxor to Cairo due to protesters having "Removed" the train tracks we had a night in a hotel in Cairo and a tour of the Pyramids. Tourists were a little thin on the ground but no shortage of street vendors to hassle the unprepared. We got to climb up to the entrance of the great pyramid and entered one of the tombs of queens pyramids. Of course no visit is complete without a gaze at the enigmatic Sphinx.

Postcard from the Nile 18 04 11
 

In the desert to the west of the river Nile stand the twin giant statues known as the Colossi of Memnon. The west bank of the Nile was the side on which the sun set and was therefore associated with the dead. Presumably these great megaliths had some afterlife purpose, Whatever their purpose one can only marvel at the society that caused their construction thousands of years ago.

Postcard from Kitchener's gate 26 03 11

Amid the ruins of Suakin old town stands the remains of Kitcheners gate still guarded by a pair of mortars and a couple of old Zulu war vintage field guns with their limbers surprizingly intact preserved perhaps by the dry climate. it appears the the British built a railway from Khartoum to here after the defeat of the mhadi, However all is in ruins now Kitchener and Gordon would turn in their graves at the sight of it!

Postcard from Kitchener's Gun 26 03 11

Here in the desert sands of Sudan lies a dismounted gun. One can't help wondering how it got here and what strange sights and events it would have seen. and now it lies abandoned and forgotten.

Postcard from the Cafe Suakin 25 03 11
 

Balu and the other yachts have been windbound in the anchorage by Suakin ruins for a week now so we made a trip ashore to see the ruins on the Island. The town looks like it has suffered mercilessly at the hands of "Bomber Command" but in actuality it has just been abandoned for some reason and allowed to crumble. Amazingly in the midst of the ruins we find a local lady running a sort of cafe.needless to say we purchase coffees. The cooking equipment consists of shovelful of charcoal and the furniture is four plastic chairs, no table!

Postcard from Port Sudan 23 03 11

Whilst holed up in Suakin Sudan with the wind we all decide to take a bus run to the main town of Port Sudan. It is an interesting bus journey through the desert where bedouin tents are dotted periodically along the route each with attendant herds of goats and sometimes camels. We understand that photography is forbidden in Sudan so we have to be circumspect in the use of cameras so as not to land up in trouble.  Once in town we wander around the various markets where the local open air butcher tries to interest us in some goat!  Turning a corner I am slightly surprised see an FG Wilson generator all the way from Monkstown!

Postcard from Suakin 20 03 11

Postcard from Eritrea 11 03 11

After a long night with fickle winds and a fair amount of motoring, Scot free and Balu decided to find anchorage in a bay called Dergammon Seghir in Eritrea. Iain on Scot free manages as usual to find a reefy spot! but eventually we are secure and have a well earned rest. The stress of the "Pirate Zone" is beginning to tell on us all!
      Towards evening a local dhow appears from seaward and we watch suspiciously as it comes and anchors between Balu and Scot free. To our relief the natives are friendly and we are soon invited onboard their simple craft and given a large Kingfish as a present! They find out that we can play music and we are required to tune up the whistle and Concertina. Abdul their skipper speaks a little english and when we play "Egans Polka" he is greatly pleased and gets us to play it again and records it on his mobile phone! Its strange that no matter where one travels in the world, and no matter how poor the people, they always seem to be able to get their hands on Mobile phones!

Postcard from Bab el Mendeb 10 03 11

At last "Bravo group" is through the entrance to the Red sea. We are not clear of pirate risk by any means but this is certainly a milestone along the way. The winds are gusting to 50knots and the seas are massive but we are all pleased as this disadvantages the pirates in their small skiffs and gives our little group a slight edge. In addition we are eating up the miles to the north towards the Saudi/ Yemeni border where we will be able to consider ourselves clear of the major pirate risk

Gillaroo:

Postcard from Pirate Alley Day 3 - 05 03 11
 

An eventful day! Through the night the autopilot has decided to misbehave and under the circumstances we hand over lead of "Bravo group" to Scot Free. Then in the morning,ominously, two dhows towing skiffs are sighted ahead!  The convoy in ordered to close up at maximum speed as a precaution. In the process of racing forward at maximum speed Balu's engine starts to overheat and unfortunately refuses to cooldown. The convoy slows, and Spirit of Nina takes Balu in tow so that the engine can be stopped and allowed to cool in order that the problem can be resolved. It turns out, that coolant level has fallen and is inhibiting circulation! Adding water sorts the problem and we are able to proceed under our own power again, Phew!

Postcard from Pirate Alley 04 03 11

Day two of the convoy and we are concerned to have had a report of a pirate attack directly ahead. Here a coalition helicopter is a welcome sight as it circles Balu and the convoy. Coalition force advises us that the area of the reported attack is now clear.We press on with crossed fingers.

Phi Phi Don, Thailand - December 2010
 

A Visitor Calls!

Balu had spent a pleasant couple of days at Phi Phi Don island secured to one of the many local moorings. It was interesting to see the place bustling with tourists and the infrastructure completely renewed after the Boxing Day tsunami, the only reminders of which are the tsunami evacuation warning notices at various locations around the beach area. There was even an Irish pub which served a brand of stout I had never heard of let alone tasted. We took the opportunity to have our feet nibbled in a tank of hundreds of tiny fish, apparently it removes dead skin and refreshes the feet. It was certainly ticklish in the extreme!!

At about 00.30hrs. I was awakened by a shout of alarm from Marion who announced she had just seen a rat! A quick search seemed to indicate that it had gone to earth probably in the foc'sle. Since we were caught off guard years ago by a plague of flies off the Spanish coast and not a can of fly spray on the boat, we have learned to keep a goodly stock of materials for all sorts of pests. Marion dug into long unopened lockers and produced a rat trap purchased in French Polynesia, a bag of mousetraps and several blocks of rat/ mouse poison bait. We set a block of bait forward and aft - whilst I found a piece of chicken and secured it with rubber bands to the rat trap. Luckily Marion spotted the little devil in the foc'sle dragging the poison into a corner behind the dive cylinders. So I placed the rat trap in the vicinity and we retired to bolster ourselves with a stiff gin and rum!
Unbelievably as I sat sipping my rum, the rat came out as bold as brass , and started to eat the chicken off the trap. I sat frozen, not daring to move a muscle, wondering why the trap ( not the most hightec piece of apparatus) was not triggered. All of a sudden, the trap tripped and both trap and rat flew up into the air. The rat gave a few twitches and was still.
Now I know I should have photographed the event for posterity, but at that moment, I was more intent on getting a pair of gloves on and sending him to Davey Jones' locker, so apart from a bloodstained pair of anchor hauling gloves, you will have to take this tale on trust! In any case, by 01.30hrs we were off to sleep and counted ourselves lucky to have caught the varmint so rapidly. Many boats we know have been tormented for weeks or months. Whether he came up the mooring rope or sneaked aboard via the dinghy we cannot say, but at least Balu is again pest free.

Ko Muk - 8 Dec. 2010

It was Tuesday and we decided to visit the island of Ko Muk . Initially we anchored in a cove to the northern end but it seemed too constricted and we weren't happy about leaving Balu when we went exploring. So we weighed anchor and moved about a mile south to a wide bay with a resort and anchored there with lots of searoom. We took the dinghy a 15 min ride back north to the cave entrance to the famous Emerald Cave hong. The cave leads 80 metres into the island taking a couple of turns left and right and the main section is totally dark so a torch is needed. There is not too much headroom in places so probably at high tide you would possibly need to dive under the water to get through. Marion and I left the dinghy tied up outside and swam slowly into the cave. There were dead ends port and starboard but we pressed on until the light from the entrance was gone and the sound of the surf echoed eerily through the cave. There were shoals of glass fish hiding in the gloom. A little further on the tunnel turns to the left and there is a faint glimmer of light . Eventually one emerges into a sandy beach surrounded by sheer cliffs and jungle noises. A really amazing site. Its getting late and all the trip boats have departed so the hong is deserted. We make our way back to the dinghy and head back to Balu for sundowners.
Once on Balu we are tempted by the prospect of a meal ashore and a beer but whilst we deliberate on the surf landing strategy, our neighbours on a South African boat head for the shore in their dinghy. We watch with interest to see how they cope. They pause in the dinghy to assess the surf and all at once a breaker picks up their dinghy and capsizes it. They and all their gear end up in the sea, and although they are fine and the outboard engine even restarts when the dinghy is righted, all notions of a run ashore are abandoned.
Peace at last - a good nights sleep!!

Dec 2010 - Three nights in Thailand.

Sunday 5th Dec and the harbourmaster returned from his weekend off and we were able to clear with him, then customs and finally immigration. It only remained to pay the marina and cast off.
For our first passage, we chose to sail to Ko Lipe, a small island in the Butang group. On arrival we found the place bustling with fast ferry boats unloading backpackers and holidaymakers in dozens into local longtail craft of which there were perhaps fifty. The longtail is a narrow boat 8-10 metres long powered with a giant strimmer! None of the guide book's promised moorings existed, and there were seven or eight yachts and catamarans occupying the prime spots between the fringe of the coral reef and the deep water. We found a spot and hooked in on sand but close enough to the coral to cause concern should the wind shift.
We decided to set the GPS alarm to let us know if we moved towards the coral, and went to bed. Beep, beep, beep awoke us from slumber only to reveal that Balu had turned round moving the stern GPS antenna, 12 m plus 12m equals 24m or 80 ft to the north. Back to sleep with the alarm reset and an hour later, beep, beep, beep - so it went on all night, to the accompaniment of disco music and lights on the shore. So we were glad to see dawn and move on to Ko Rawi, in the same group, about 10 miles away.
Again the promised moorings were non existent so we found a shallow sand patch as described in the pilot and anchored there on good sand only to see, at low tide as darkness fell ,a wicked row of coral heads poking up 50m away like jagged teeth. We set the depth alarm this time and at least we were not disturbed from our uneasy slumber by that.
Tuesday morning , as dawn broke, we weighed anchor and were off to the north. We chose a spot Ko Phetra, a long limestone ridge 376m high, rising absolutely sheer from the water. We anchored to the east side of it as a swell came from the west rendering the west coast untenable. We found a spot in 5 metres and dropped the hook. Holding seemed good and the sea bed was flat and clear of coral. Some local trawlers came in and anchored, reassuring us that the spot was good but setting us wondering if they might be smuggling especially when large numbers of drums passed to and fro between them at anchor.  Eventually as night fell they left and we retired. However, at 02.00 hrs the racket began. The tide had turned and the wind had freshened, and a short sea started to beat like a drum on the stern and along the side of Balu. Sleep was again impossible! but hopefully we waited for dawn and slack water . When dawn came of course the wind died and we weighed anchor in millpond conditions.
Now we are on route to another anchorage - can we ever get some sleep in Thailand??

 

Penang to Langkawi -  20-22 November 2010

Our arrival in Penang coincides with the Penang Bridge Marathon, a really big event with apparently 15,000 or so entrants. Any temptation to compete is allayed by the happy news that the entry closed a week ago!
It is so hot here that daylight running is out of the question so the race starts at 02.00 hrs. The main Penang bridge is closed in both directions until 10.00 hrs the next day. We are quite tired and glad of a sleep but hear the various announcements of the different starts through snatches of consciousness.

The giant shopping mall opposite the anchorage soon attracts the crew ashore by way of the rickety jetty of the fishermans cooperative. Dodging along the road trying to keep in the shade to avoid the furnace -like heat of the sun, we eventually reach the mall and its air conditioning via a rest stop in an air conditioned mini-mart and a welcome cool drink of mineral water. The mall is easily the largest we have ever seen, almost certainly larger than anything in Ireland.
Inside are the usual food outlets and large numbers of jewellers stores selling expensive European watches and diamonds. Some of the shops have armed guards with assault rifles outside, a stark contrast with the poverty of the fishermans jetty.
Marion has a scout round the shops whilst yours truly has a coffee and a read in the cool surroundings. Later we head for the food mall a feature of Malaysian stores. Its an open area of seating, surrounded by food outlets. We select the food we like from the outlet that takes our fancy and then carry the food to the open area to eat. I have sizzling noodles with bony chicken!
We make our way back to the boat before dark and find the fishermans co-op alive with rats as big as squirrels!! The dinghy is hard aground on the white sand which turns out to be 1mm of sand over a deep layer of black sticky mud. Eventually we get back on board and enjoy the security of the anchorage.
In the morning the mud covered anchor is hauled up and stowed and we are off north, via the Penang bridge. Once clear of the north channel with its cruise ships, coasters, tugs and barges, we head for tiny Songsang island where we anchor off a sandy spit for the night. The water is clear enough here for a swim, but only just! Still, its a beautiful setting. The local fishermen have anchored here too but they head off at dusk to fish.
In the morning, we were entertained by two pairs of sea eagles wheeling overhead. Our early start had us well on the way to Langkawi by lunchtime and we arrived in Christmas Bay well before dusk. Christmas Bay is shallow and water clarity was not good with many large jellyfish around but the holding was good for the anchor and the scenery pretty.
During the night I was rewarded with the sight of the stars of the Plough (the Great Bear) and just faintly visible through haze, low on the horizon was Polaris, the North Star. The first sighting since before Galapagos, nearly 2 years ago.
Wednesday morning we made a short trip around to the 'Fjord' anchorage, a well protected spot. Here we found 'First Light III ', an Australian boat we met in Danga Bay.

Danga Bay - North - November 2010

Danga Bay is located in the northern end of the Johore Strait which separates Singapore from Malaya. It has the singular distinction of having the only free marina in the world! (so far) managed by Aussie Captain Ron, a real character. After modifying the engine plumbing to prevent syphoning, and renewing the rear camshaft seal, only an inspection trip up the mast stood between us and departure.
We set off early on Tuesday 16th Nov. having managed to extricate ourselves from a locked in position behind 2 other boats to a hammerhead berth on Monday evening. The prop had been cleaned by diving at the expense of an outer ear infection (now nearly cleared up) due to the turbid water, so we made reasonable progress down the Johore Strait in company with Thumbs Up, an American boat with British skipper Ivan. It was sad to leave numerous friends behind but the cruising life is full of farewells.
Engine running sweetly, we passed under the massive 2nd. Link bridge, linking Johore to Singapore and motored on out the Strait under the ever vigilant eye of the Singapore Police patrol boats stationed every kilometre or so along the Strait.
Early afternoon saw us around the southern tip of mainland Asia, Tanjung Piat, having navigated through a floating rubbish dump with all manner of junk - polystyrene, rope, sandals, plastic bags, bottles, sticks etc. Beginning to think Singapore is only clean because they must throw all their rubbish into the sea.
Looking at the tip of Asia, it is strange to reflect that in theory we could walk home from here - at least as far as Portpatrick ! Meanwhile the water clarity has not improved much - makes Carrickfergus harbour look like a spa resort!
We are sailing in the Doldrums now, the area of calm winds and thunderstorms that separates the SE trades from the NE monsoon, the latter just about ready to kick in. Peculiar to think that there will be parties of mountaineers in the Himalayas watching for the change from SW to NE monsoon for a chance to climb the higher peaks. Although the main period for such climbs is the change from NE to SW monsoon which occurs in May. In any case , there is little likelihood of wind in this area until we can get a little farther north, so the engine rules the roost!
As we exit to Johore Strait, we enter the infamous Malacca Straits between Sumatra and Malaya, the haunt of pirates for more than 1000 years! This is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world as it carries nearly all the goods from the Far East towards the west and Europe. Our plan is to stay near the Malaysian shore and keep just near the edge of the northbound lane. However navigation is not easy as we have several slow moving tugs towing barges north and more moving south, not to mention the countless fishing drifters lying to their nets. The waters are rather shallow too so that also needs attention. After nightfall, the traffic is even more confusing as many of the tows show no lights at all. The only thing visible is the stern light of the tug which is indistinguishable from the fishing craft lights! Thunderstorms rage through the night over Sumatra on our port side. Dawn finds us approaching Pulau Besar in the Water Islands, near the old port of Melaka. We anchor and have a much needed rest although in truth, its not much of an anchorage , at least the sea is a little clearer and the islands look pretty, jungle and sandy beaches.
Thursday finds us on the move again and we bid farewell to Thumbs Up as they have decided not to transit the Red Sea and so are on a different time frame from Balu. It is very hot and the prospect of passing Port Klang, the main port for Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia, in the dark is a daunting one. The night brings the usual mele of tugs, fishing boats and then as the finale off Port Klang we have a mass of anchored ships awaiting their turn to enter Klang, and worse, others milling around erratically under power waiting for a pilot or instructions.
After Port Klang, we experience a Sumatra , but only a mild one with winds under 25 knots and it soon passes. Dawn breaks with lightning ahead over Sumatra, there's still lots of junk in the water and the tide is against us.  Working our way between sand banks , we can see breakers to starboard - at least its shallow water, so we can anchor if the need arises. Too late to reach the safety of Pankour Island before dark so we carry on for another night punctuated with thunderstorms. I disconnect the radio aerials as a precaution against damage. Eventually dawn arrives and we find we are still in a sea of plastic bags, fluorescent tubes, light bulbs, wood and polystyrene - even a dead crocodile floats past! We make our way via the south entrance into the island of Penang and anchor amongst more rubbish in front of the giant shopping mall.

June 2010 - Across the Coral Sea in Balu

 It was dawn on Friday, the day of our planned departure ,when we were  alarmed by the boat rocking peculiarly, we later heard that there had been an earthquake 150 miles away to the North East! Earthquakes seem to be following us ! but at least there was no sign of a tsunami with this one! must be time to leave!

 With barely 5 knots of wind we motorsailed slowly down the Segond Channel and away from a rainy Vanuatu. The charting accuracy here is rather poor and  so much of the time the GPS plotter had us sailing across dry land! As we cleared the channel we crossed  roughly built native craft heavily overladen with locals and bags of cement, ferrying between the outer islands, their crews waving as we passed.

  At last we were clear into the open ocean and with a fiery sunset ahead of us we bid farewell to  Santo Island probably forever! The full moon rose serenely over the smooth sea to lighten our first night of passage and with it a gentle breeze arrived filling our sails and creating a gentle rustle in the wake and allowing us to dispense with the engine as we started to eat up the miles westward towards the great continent of Australia.

   The Coral Sea is aptly named as it is scattered with irregular coral outcrops and reefs all along our route and they stand ready to trap the careless navigator. Our route is set to keep us to the north of the densest reefs at least until we near the most famous reef of all the Great Barrier Reef, our final frontier before Australia. Our first few days pass uneventfully with light winds and all plain sailing. We clock off one hundred miles on the first day which is considered acceptable at least by the crew on board, only 1150 more to go!

  These are the waters sailed by the famous/ infamous Captain Bligh  when he was cast adrift with his loyal crew in the ships launched after the notorious mutiny on H.M.S. Bounty.  Bligh's account of their epic 3000 mile voyage in ships boats from near the island of Tanna via the Barrier Reef to Kupang in Timor,  rates as  the longest open boat voyage of all time  and was an amazing feat of endurance and fortitude. In his tale Bligh related a fact that we found had to believe, he recounts how a seabird lands on their small craft and they catch it by hand and eat it feathers and all!

       Being  northern sailors, it is hard to visualise catching a herring gull or the like by hand, but as evening falls on Balu, we find that brown boobies, a large gannet like bird, come down and alight on Balu and we have great difficulty shooing them away! In fact, I have to grab one and throw it over the side. Marion is reduced to banging baking trays together in an attempt to frighten them off, as we fear for the masthead instruments and of course their toilet habits are none too boat friendly and they leave quite a mess in the morning! We are also visited by noddies but they are content to perch along the stern gantry and don't seem to threaten a mess or damage so we are content to have them as stowaways.

So it seems, that after two hundred years the behaviour of the local birdlife is still the same and old Captain Bligh's account is vindicated. We also see boobies and noddies roosting on floating logs and any other flotsam. Why they do this, when they are quite able to float and rest on the water is hard to say but perhaps they are less vunerable to shark attack, when resting on a floating object?

The next two days give us runs noon to noon of 106miles and 81miles not spectactular but easy sailing and in the right direction, we also notice an area of yellowish discoloured water as we pass the Sabine shoals, perhaps there has been some volcanic activity?

 Tuesday afternoon reveals an electric storm ahead, we hope that it will move away or fizzle out but no such luck! It inexorably moves closer -  we count the time between the flashes and the rumbles of thunder and the seconds keep decreasing .Now sound travels at 1100feet per second, thats 5 seconds to the mile, so when the interval between flash and bang gets below 5 seconds, I disconnect the radio aerials as a precaution and we both cower under the relative safety of the steel doghouse! A steel boat should be safe in a thunderstorm but these are mighty forces and who can tell what the outcome of a direct hit would be? At last there is a simultaneous flash and bang! The noise is deafening! and Balu shakes even the bulkheads vibrate! We hold our breath as the storm is now right overhead. Hard to believe we will not get a direct hit with the alloy mast pointing up seventeen metres skywards. Next flash! a two second delay! perhaps it is moving astern? Slowly the interval between flash and rumble increases and the fury diminishes , time for a sundowner drink! Shortly after that we pass our first ship the Asian Brier, she is Tokyo bound.

 Wednesday and Thursday return runs of 120 miles a day, better progress, and a heavy rain shower lets us fill the port water tank with rainwater so thirst should not be an option on the rest of the trip. Marion has baked bread ,so we have fresh bread again. Our westward progress also means that we have to shift the ships clocks back one hour which we need to do every fifteen degrees of longitude, to keep noon at approximately midday, we are now ten hours ahead of Greenwich mean time.

Friday brings another one hundred and twenty mile days run, but in the afternoon the wind dies and we need to start the engine for a few hours .  Night brings more wind and a group of  noddies perching on the radar and another one on the pulpit.  On Saturday morning, after eight days at sea, we catch our first dorado. It is about 90 centimetres long ( about three feet in old money), and it is as usual a beautiful golden colour. As the dorado , (or Mahi Mahi as they are called in the Pacific) dies ,the colour changes from golden to iridescent green, to a beautiful metallic blue and then finally silver. We ease him painlessly on his way with a drop of rum administered to the gills.

Now with fresh food and a fresh breeze we find we have clocked up 140 miles as the days run, but Marion is still up in the dark banging tins to keep off more boobies..

Sunday lunchtime sees us pass Sandy Cay the first outlier of the Great Barrier reef. We watch in awe at the breakers claw at the coral and are glad to pass in daylight and confirm our position. What a nightmare this place must have been before the days of satellite navigation, when a small error in astro navigation or heavy cloud cover could end ones voyage and ones life in an instant on these savage reefs! We are pleased with an excellent one hundred and fifty miles run and now have only 200 miles to go, so we need to slow down so we can make land fall in daylight on Tuesday. We have given 48 hours notice to the Australian coastguard of our arrival and with main furled and reefed genoa we progress with force 6 winds towards the Grafton Passage, one of the few gaps in the Great Barrier reef. We seem to have a little shelter from the swell from the many reefs that lie to the south of us now. Monday night we can make out the loom of city lights of Cairns far away in the distance, but there is as yet no sign of the lighthouses that beckon us towards Euston reef and the gap in the Barrier.

 Dawn on Tuesday and we round Euston reef and enter the "shelter " of the barrier, but still thirty five miles to go! We announce our arrival to Australian Customs and we are cleared to enter Cairns. We eventually motor down the long five mile channel into Cairns and are directed alongside where the customs and quarantine officials are there to take our lines! and charge us $350 for the privilege! Lucky we arrived in office hours, otherwise it would have been $650! Still they were very friendly and we got a free baseball cap!

At last however we are in the land of koalas and kangaroos!

July 2010 - Vanuatu

Pressed for time we sailed on to Vila the capital of Vanuatu on the Island of Efate and completed customs, immigration and Quarantine inspection there.
Vila port  has a well sheltered inner harbour across two shallow bars, inside it is deep and it is more or less mandatory to pick up one of the poorly maintained and expensive mooring buoys. A visit ashore to the ATM confirmed that we were  "Vanuatan Millionaires" - the local currency, the Vatu being worth around one US cent!
After a rest in Vila and a period to adjust to the local Bislamah (pigin english) "Feet blong us him itchy" and we set off north to the island of Epi and anchored in beautiful Lamen bay. Friendly locals showed us the best anchoring spot and we had a pleasant evening watching the local dugong or sea cow grazing the underwater seagrass in the bay whilst local proas sailed out fishing with coconut leaves for sails. An overnight sail the next day took us to the large island of Espirito Santo by way of  a lightning storm, and bypassing the island of Pentecost. This is where the young men leap off bamboo towers with vines tied to their ankles (an early inspiration for bungy jumping!) originally they did it as a display of manhood but now it is organised for the tourists we had in on good authority from another yacht that they actually hit the ground.
Luganville on Santo was the main United States base for the start of the fightback in the WW2 Pacific theatre of operations. Supplies and troops were mustered here and there were fighter and bomber aircraft stationed on the island. Much still remains of the US wartime presence in the form of wartime nissan type huts and wide USA style streets,but the ubiquitous "Chinese " stores predominate as elsewhere in the tropics with their eclectic mixture of tacky plastic goods, hurricane lamps, corned beef tins, and bread! One of the most famous wartime relics here is the wreck of the troopship Samuel Coolidge an ex liner of Titanic proportions, which struck a freshly laid US mine the presence of which was unknown to the captain. She sank quickly but not before the captain got her bows on the steep shore and almost all the crew and troops landed safely albeit without their combat gear and weapons. This latter fact proved a lifesaver for many of them as they were spared the bloody attack on the Japanese on nearby Guadalcanal due to their lack of equipment.  This wreck is now a world class dive site, as is "Million dollar" point nearby where the Americans dumped all their kit into the sea at the end of the war, no doubt to keep up the prices of American equipment!.
We moored to a buoy on the small island of Aore opposite Luganville which sported a top of the range resort for Australian tourists, we did treat ourselves to a meal and beer ashore in the resort but at the price it had to be a one off!
     

To welcome us to Santo a tropical depression developed to the north of us and gave us several days of torrential tropical downpour , we had 30 centimetres of rain in one evening - that's four months worth back home!  The next day the sea was of a chocolate brown and diving was definitely off , but we took the dinghy across the Segond Channel and had another hunt around the shops in the town.  I found  some WWII coke bottles left from the war and have added one to my collection of dust gathering bits.  Needless to say water was easily available in Santo so we topped up with freshwater and supplies cleared out through customs, and were ready to make the 1,300 miles jump to Australia and the Koalas.

12/05/10  En Route to Vanuatu

Ten Days out from New Zealand today and a gale under our belts; today finds us slowly sailing past the Island of Tana in the New Hebrides ( Vanuatu) This island is Famous for its active volcano, which seems quiet today, but also for its remarkable religion,The "Cult of John Frum"

    Most cargo cults have been short-lived, but the longest lasting and famous is the John Frum cult, on the island of Tana in Vanuatu (formerly the New Hebrides), the members of which have been waiting over 40 years for the return of American GIs. The islanders had long believed in a legend that foretold that a mighty god would come from the air and the sea to establish a time of peace and prosperity. Their legend also claimed that 50,000 warriors were waiting inside the volcano, Yasur, to lead them into victory and prosperity.During World War II, an influx of American soldiers, ships and cargo arrived in Melanesia. 1,000 men were recruited from Tana to work on the American landing strip and army base on the neighbouring island of Efate. Not only did the Tanese experience better treatment than they were used to under the previous British administration, but they saw black American soldiers arriving who had the same possessions, clothes and food as the whites, all of which were beyond the everyday reach of the Tanese.Back on Tana the islanders stopped going to church and began to build landing strips, warehouses and radio masts out of bamboo, in the belief that if it worked on Efate for the Americans, it would work for them on Tana. Carved figurines of American warplanes, helmets and rifles were made from bamboo and used as religious icons. Islanders began to march in parades with USA painted, carved or tattooed on their chests and backs. John Frum emerged as the name of their Messiah, although there are no records of an American soldier with that name.When the last American GI left at the end of the war, the islanders predicted John Frum's return. The movement continued to flourish and on 15 February, 1957, an American flag was raised in Sulphur Bay to declare the religion of John Frum. It is on this date every year that John Frum Day is celebrated. They believe that John Frum is waiting in the volcano Yasur with his warriors to deliver his cargo to the people of Tana. During the festivities the elders march in an imitation army, a kind of military drill mixed with traditional dancing. Some carry imitation rifles made of bamboo and wear American army memorabilia such as caps, T-shirts and coats. They believe that their annual rituals will draw the god John Frum down from the volcano and deliver the cargo of prosperity to all of the islanders.

Well its a pity we don't have time to stop on Tana but its still along way to Singapore and we have to keep up the pace.

A Gale in the Tasman Sea - 9th May 2010

  The pair of us cringe as we hear the roar of an approaching breaking sea. Wham!  BALU Shudders from the impact and water cascades clear across the coachroof.  The main cabin hatches and ports all underwater, BALU staggers up, sea streaming off her like a half tide rock, or a whale breaching. Now she is more submarine than yacht, and still the wind indicator in the cabin is showing a steady 40 knots.  BALU ploughs on gamely whilst we are both secretly thinking how much more punishment like this can she take?
  Down under in the Southern Ocean the wind systems, whilst similar to the North Atlantic in many ways, are subtly different in others.  For one thing the systems rotate in opposite directions to their northern counterparts, and the strong wind zone is much closer to the equator than in the North Atlantic.  One of the more peculiar differences is that unlike up North where High pressure systems tend to be more or less stationary, here in the South they move along with the Lows, in a succession of High, Low, High, Low, etc. on a roughly weekly cycle.
  The trick therefore in escaping the Kiwi winter is to hitch a ride on the back of one of the Lows as it passes New Zealand and ride the southerly winds North to the tropics whilst the relatively benign High pressure is passing, and hoping to reach the tropics before the next Low catches up.  This is euphemistically called a "weather window".
  The South Pacific cyclone season ends at the start of May and so BALU and crew took the first "weather window" to head north, the forecast looked good for the week ahead, and that should have seen us into the tropics and relatively benign weather. However light winds and a heavy swell slowed us to less than 90 miles a day and so the following Low started to catch us up and squeeze the High causing a crush zone of accelerated NE wind which gradually built up to gale force, and gave us our "dusting".
  Thankfully Balu came through the gale relatively unscathed minus the masthead wind indicator and a few rubber pads we use to chock the anchors ( given to us by Stephen Ferris in Trinidad) and a damaged patch on the mainsail.  In the end the front passed quickly, the wind eventually dropping from 40 knots to 15 in a few minutes, leaving a nasty swell behind of course which lasted the next 24 hours.
Now we are across the tropic of Capricorn, and hopefully we will get some steady trade winds to speed us on our way home to Larne.

Afloat again and homeward bound . April/May 2010

Weds. 28th April was a bright sunny morning in two ways. Not only was it sunny but the travel lift came alongside the cradle to carry a smart looking Balu back to the sea. Everything went smoothly and in no time we were back on our mooring opposite Opua marina. It was great to be afloat again after all that time and work on the hard. Mind you , the work hadn't finished as we had lots of tidying and stowing to do , but at least we were in the water again.

Keeping a weather eye on the grib files, we could see that there would be a good weather window if we could be ready to leave at the weekend. Rather optimistic , but we had to get on our way if we were going to be in Singapore by September to fly home for Luke and Orla's wedding. We had previously given advance notice to Customs a couple of days ago - they request 4 days notice, I'm not sure why as it seems to make little difference.

Our Dutch friends Dory and Hans from 'Happy Monster' were heading to Whangerei in their car to stock up at the Pak'n Save supermarket and offered us a ride too. This would be the last 'big shop' before we leave and a chance to buy a supply of pineapple lumps to keep me going for a while. ( they are yummy and I am addicted!!)
As well as shopping in town our Finnish friends from Auckland came to meet up with us to say goodbye, and ended up coming back with us to Opua to stay the night.

By Saturday we had most of our chores done and we were pretty sure we would be ready to leave the next day. 33 boats taking part in the Island Cruising Assoc. rally to Tonga left that morning which cleared the way for us. We phoned Customs as requested to inform them we would require clearance the following morning.
There was just time for one more jug of Monteiths in the Opua Cruising Club bar with a few friends, and then we took the dinghy back to Balu to prepare for the next day.
On Sunday morning we went ashore to do the paperwork with Customs and settle up with the marina and the chandlers.That done it was time to drop the mooring and head out from Opua which had been our home for the last 6 months, and into the Bay of Islands,passing all the pretty anchorages we wished we had more time to explore. We had really enjoyed New Zealand and made lots of new friends there.
The wind was light and we motored to get clear of the coast before nightfall. Our friends John and Nicole on Taraipo , which had left a few hours before , passed us returning to Opua with a broken forestay. Hope our rigging holds out!!
Our first night at sea was cold but the wind was light which helped us get settled in to sailing again. NZ was soon out of sight even though progress was slow.We are heading for Vanuatu, just over 1000 miles away so we'll have plenty of time to remember how everything works!

As I write the sun is shining but 21 degrees centigrade still feels cool to us and we are looking forward to an increase in temperature each day as we head further north. We have had a little finch type bird on board overnight but after some brown rice, water and a rest it has departed again. I think it would have been a better decision to stay with us but maybe it will pick up another yacht nearby.

The fishing line is out so I'm off to check if we have caught anything. Watch this space !!!

April 2010 - Return  to the sun . . . . . and hard work              

Back in NZ it was midsummer and it was comforting to see our home still happily bobbing about on the mooring at Opua . After a couple of weeks doing a few jobs afloat, Balu was hauled out at Ashby’s boatyard for some serious work.

Life on the hard is hard – and progress is sometimes slow. However we have a nice spot in the yard and at the end of the day we can sit in the cockpit and enjoy a well deserved beer looking out over the marina and the bay. There can’t be many boatyards with such a stunning backdrop, NZ  scenery is really beautiful.

Our neighbours come and go and it’s always good to discuss any problems each of us have.

This is the first time we have had to live onboard whilst working on the boat. It’s not easy ! – especially when the work is down below, eg. painting the insides of the water tanks! These are underneath the seats in the saloon , so we have nowhere to sit until the job is done. We’ve also had a lodger for a week – our Danish singlehander friend Johnny, who sold his 25ft boat ‘Vindil’ and was homeless until he set off travelling overland for a couple of  weeks before flying back to Denmark. He was a great help when we painted Balu’s topsides and we miss his company now he’s gone. We’ve been friends since way back at Bonaire and we were part of his linehandling crew through the Panama Canal. Anyway, we gave him a good send-off and hopefully we’ll stay in touch and see him again in the not too distant future either in Denmark or Ireland or maybe both!

We have ticked off quite a number of major jobs to date but still have a few more to go before re-launching. Some of the chores are off the boat and we have been able to get lifts with yachties who have cars ,to go and get items like a new battery and charts for the next part of the trip and other bits and pieces. It’s refreshing to get away for a while and we get to see more of the lovely scenery here. On our last sortie our friends Andy and John took us to the oldest surviving building in NZ – the Stone Store at Kerikeri built in 1822. Not old by Carrickfergus Castle standards but nevertheless very interesting.

Opua Cruising Club is the local social venue and we have enjoyed several fun ‘jam’ sessions with other nationalities – a bit like our own Eurovision song contest ! On St. Patrick’s Day, the Commodore presented us with two attractive Opua Cruising Club glasses in recognition of our efforts in decorating Balu for the occasion. In turn we handed over an East Antrim Boat Club burgee which will be displayed in the clubhouse along with all the others that hang as decoration.

The summer is over here now and we are beginning to feel cold again. The butter is hard and the time is drawing near for those of us who are moving on to leave NZ shores behind. It is such a big and beautiful country we have already decided to fly back one day to do it justice and hire a camper van to see as many places as we can.

As for now, we are aiming to leave around the beginning of May, depending on the weather and head in the direction of New Caledonia and Vanuatu. We will have to say goodbye to some of our friends here but we’re sure to meet some familiar faces again as the exodus from NZ begins. It’ll be good to be afloat and on the move again to oceans new as we turn to head north for the first time since leaving  home in 2008.  A few hundred miles and we’ll be back in the heat and warm seas again , and less than half a world away as we head for home.

December 2009 - January 2010  Christmas bells and wedding bells

Our journey back to UK was long but reasonably comfortable – a 12 hour flight from Auckland to Singapore followed by another 12 hour flight from Singapore to London. As we flew over Singapore we could see hundreds of ships at anchor and we wondered how we would weave our way through them when we hopefully arrive in Balu next September.

After a 2 night stopover in England at Grandma’s, we stepped out of Belfast City airport after meeting our daughter Lucy. The excitement of being home helped us to keep warm on a cold December evening. The Christmas decorations were up everywhere and we looked forward to all the festivities we had missed in the Caribbean last Christmas!

We had extra fun before Christmas as the first 2 weekends at home were spent on Lucy’s hen and Donal’s stag parties. Another great opportunity to catch up with friends. Interspersed with a trip to Dublin to see our son Luke and Orla , it felt good to see the family again.

The days at home passed really quickly and before we knew it our special family Christmas was over and we were busy with preparations for Lucy and Donal’s wedding on Jan. 16^th. Everything went off perfectly on the day -  even the weather which up until then had been mostly snow and ice. We were getting used to it by now but looked forward to heading back to the heat!

On Jan 25^th, bags packed, we headed for the airport after nearly 2 months at home. We thought it would go so much slower and we still hadn’t managed to do all the things we had intended. It had been brilliant  to catch up with everyone again but the goodbyes don’t get any easier. At least we have more celebrations to look forward to in September when we’ll be back for Orla and Luke’s wedding in Galway. But for now we have to prepare ourselves for some hard work as Balu is in need of some tlc and pampering when we haulout  as soon as we return to NZ.

November 2009 - Land of the Long White Cloud

Our month in Tonga included some beautiful anchorages and humpback whale sightings. Everyday more boats left to head south for New Zealand and finally we thought the time was right for us. We checked out from Neiafu on Oct. 22nd  and the wind was pretty gusty. We decided to anchor round the corner for the night and head out for North Minerva Reef the following day.
For the first 2 days the seas were lively and the temperature cooler. On the third day we decided to put up the mainsail as the speed was dropping and we needed to arrive at the reef in daylight. We made contact on the SSB radio with Des Fenner at Opua Offshore Communications so that he would advise the NZ customs of our updated arrival time.
In the early morning after 4 days we could see the surf breaking on Minerva Reef and our timing was perfect for locating and entering the pass. Its an amazing place - right out in the middle of the ocean. The pass was easy to negotiate and once inside we anchored beside our Finnish friends Juha and Taija on Libertas. There was plenty of room to anchor there in the lagoon and the colour of the water near the reef was unreal. We went for a walk ( or rather paddle!) on the reef just after we arrived as it was so calm. There didn't appear to be much life on the reef itself but a few fish darted about in the shallow pools.
We were buzzed by a NZ RAF Orion aircraft the following day and they circled around each of the 7 boats anchored , asking for information and intended arrival date in NZ. After 4 nights there we decided to begin the final leg of our trip to NZ. We had a good start by catching a sizeable wahoo just before the RAF flew over us and checked our details again!
We expected light winds after a few squalls on this leg and as we thought the engine had to be started. After a while we were back to sailing in very pleasant conditions until a front came through leaving us with southerly winds. Our decision to stay east and close to the rhumb line paid off and we were still on course for Opua. At dawn on the morning of Nov. 7th 2009 we sailed into the Bay of Islands and from what we could see it could have been the west coast of Scotland ! We motored past some pretty looking anchorages and up to the quarantine pontoon at Opua.
We had made it to New Zealand  - exactly halfway round the world from Carrickfergus.
We waited our turn to be boarded by the customs and biosecurity staff. To make sure the hull was clean an underwater camera was used to check we had no growth under the waterline. Forms were completed and the officials were all very friendly , presenting us with an attractive basketweave bag full of brochures, information and a keyring. The biosecurity officer checked the fridge contents and food lockers. He took away 2 onions and 1 potato which was the only fresh veg we had left, along with our rubbish which they dispose of safely in case there was any contaminated items.
We picked up a mooring just off the marina which was to be our home for the next few months while we return home to Northern Ireland for Christmas and our daughter Lucy's wedding .
There were many reunions with old friends as one by one they arrived in Opua. It had been a while since we had seen such an inviting supermarket and we treated ourselves to a few luxuries off the shelves. There were many social events going on in the local cruising club and we even won a prize in a draw at a bbq given at the boatyard.
Before we knew it , it was time to prepare for our flight home. This was to be the first time we had left Balu on her own and we were a bit nervous. However there were plenty of friends who would be able to keep an eye on her which was reassuring. Before we flew out from Auckland on 30th Nov. our kiwi friends Pete and Raewyn  took us on a 3 day tiki tour up to the north of North Island and we had a great time.
They left us to the airport on Nov 30th and we were really excited about going home, and looking forward to seeing everyone, not to mention the wedding on 16th January !

9th October 2009 - Suwarrow (Suvarov), Western Samoa, Tonga and a TSUNAMI !

Our trip to Suwarrow started off with little wind for the first 24 hours but eventually it filled in and we were sailing again. There were a few lucky fish on the way which took the bait but got away when we were reeling them in . However ,4 days out we caught 2 big dorado simultaneously and decided to keep one and put one back. When we were releasing the lucky one over the stern it tangled itself up in the vane steering lines and there was a loud crack! The tangle had caused a gybe and and the spinnaker pole on the poled out genoa had swung back against the rigging and snapped like a carrot. Turned out to be an expensive , tasty fish!!
We saw the low lying outline of Suwarrow in the early morning light after 6 days . The pass through the reef was straightforward enough and we anchored along with about 15 or so other yachts in front of the small jetty. A warden and his wife and 4 sons reside here for 6 months of the year in a 2 storey wooden shack and are grateful for the extra supplies the yachties bring them. That night a pot luck dinner come music night had been arranged and we struggled a bit to find the energy to go but it turned out to be well worth the effort . First of all the wardens sons took us over to the ocean side of the reef and fed the sharks with fish skeletons they had in a bucket. There was quite a frenzy. Next we had the food which was delicious as there was such a range of different dishes and finally the music/sing song which was really good fun.
The following day we did the checking in paperwork with Veronica, the wardens wife and had a look round the place. There was a small monument commemorating Tom Neale who lived here as a hermit for several years.
Jim was lucky enough to go on a dive with a few others out at the pass - this was the first dive that the warden had allowed for 2 years . It was a sheer wall and they saw white tipped sharks and a big turtle.
During the night the wind increased so much that the following day we had to get out of that anchorage because the boat was snatching the chain so violently - easier said than done! After much hauling and motoring around coral heads we managed to get the anchor up and move down to the Seven Islands anchorage along with quite a few other boats. The wind was still blowing hard but the sea was much flatter. We were even able to get ashore to one of the islands to explore and found some big,fluffy booby chicks sitting on the coral beach who weren't alarmed to see us at all.
The following day the wind was still gusting over 20 knots so we decided to head for Western Samoa.We followed our friends Andy and Kathy on Chinook II out of the pass and the 4 day passage to Apia was pretty lively with some grey skies and rain squalls.The highlight of that voyage was when we received an e-mail from Luke to tell us that he and Orla had just got engaged ! Of course we had a beer to celebrate. (or two!)
As we approached Samoa, we called Apia port control and the pilot launch led us in to the harbour, past a huge container that had recently gone up on the reef fully loaded with cargo. A marina has been built in the corner of the harbour and when we turned into the entrance we could see a welcoming party waiting for us on the pontoon.
We stayed in Samoa for over 2 weeks and really enjoyed our time there. The locals were so generous and friendly, always greeting us as we passed them in the street. Apia was a busy town with several supermarkets, a flea market, a fish market and even a McDonalds. Prices here were also more agreeable. At 6am on the morning of Monday Sept.7th a loud tsunami siren sounded to mark the changeover from driving on the right side of the road to the left. A 2 day holiday for everyone was had to mark this major event. It was interesting to see how quiet the roads were for several days after and alarming to see a car going round a roundabout in the wrong direction! There were policemen at every junction along with first aiders in case of any accidents. The changeover seemed to be a popular decision with all those we spoke to except for the buses which had to have the passenger opening changed from one side to the other.
As tourists, we visited Robert Louis Stevenson's grave and the lovely house called Vailima that he and his wife Fanny lived in, and went on a tour around the island stopping at a beautiful beach resort for lunch.
At times it was unbearably hot in the marina as it was so sheltered, and everyday more friends joined us until nearly all the berths were full.We were pleased to see our old friends Karen and Graham on Red Herring again.
The time had finally come for us to leave Samoa and we motored out of the harbour and experienced little wind until we totally cleared Upolu island and neighbouring Savii. Catching a small skipjack tuna was a nice treat for us and made a change from dorado.
Monday 21st Sept. didn't exist for us - it was to be 'the lost day'. Up to now we had been 12 hours behind time at home, but because we crossed the international date line we were to become 12 hours ahead of UK, hence we lost a day.
With the variation in wind we had to adjust our speed with the sails so that we would arrive in Tonga at daylight. Our early morning approach to Neiafu in the Vava'u group of islands was really scenic, with lots of small green, steep-sided islands. It's necessary to go alongside the town wharf here in order to get clearance. Along with 2 other yachts, we managed to secure our lines and wait for the various officials to come aboard.First was the immigration officer who was right upfront asking us if we had some rum we could give him!!He said he would pick it up later when the other officials weren't about. After the paperwork was complete, we picked up a mooring in front of the town. Again we recognised many of the boats in town, most of which are heading NZ way. The temperature was certainly cooler in this part of the Pacific, especially the evenings. We had to look out some warmer clothes!
Little did we know then that in a weeks time we were going to experience our first tsunami. On the morning of Weds. 30th Sept. the local VHF cruisers net gave out a tsunami warning for the area. At that time we weren't too alarmed as our anchorage was very sheltered with only a narrow opening to the outer islands. However, during the course of the day, reports kept coming over the radio from other anchorages and islands and it was clear there had been a lot of damage elsewhere.
About 140 miles to the north of us, the island of Niuatoputapu had been devastated and later we were to learn of the death of our friend Dan who had been washed off the dock at Pago pago harbour in American Samoa whilst trying to release his lines. We also heard that the beautiful beach resort in Samoa where we had once enjoyed our lunch had been totally washed away.
Since the tsunami, here in Neiafu, there has been an appeal for food, clothing, petrol etc for Niuatoputapu and yachties and locals alike have donated a substantial amount of goods.
Talking to some friends who have since arrived here, we think ourselves very fortunate as we listen to their different terrifying experiences. A few subsequent aftershocks have been reported but hopefully thats it
for a while.
Things seem mostly back to normal now for much of the region and along with other yachts we are enjoying cruising around these beautiful islands with so many delightful anchorages and crystal clear waters.
From now on we will be keeping a bit of a weather eye (along with everyone else!) as we prepare to head to the southernmost group of islands, the Tongatapu group, ready for the big jump to NZ. I get the feeling we will be wearing more and more layers of clothes as we head south. Maybe I should get the old hot water bottle out, just in case.

ps. Inbetween writing this and typing it up, we had another tsunami alert yesterday but fortunately it came to nothing. Thank goodness.
 

27 August 2009

Sorry to hear about Jim Beggs, I knew him he lived in the marina flats near the sailing club and used to be a diver with the Belfast branch years and years ago though not in my time! That will be one fewer smiling face in the bar when Gestir and I pop in.  James

21 August 2009 - Moorea /Huahine /Raiatea /Tahaa /Bora Bora

After a good sleep we went ashore and met Johnny from Vindil.  We had some lunch in a kiosk type place near the beach and then took a look in the supermarket and bought a few things - still very expensive. In the evening we returned ashore to watch a group of Japanese dancers performing Polynesian and Hawaiian dances. This took place on the floor of a dodgems track in the local funfair. The costumes were very attractive and the standard of dancing very high.  This was a free performance and the whole of Moorea had turned out to see it.
With the water being so murky in Cook's Bay we ventured a few miles to the next bay - Oponuhu Bay. This was totally different- the sea was crystal clear and a lovely turquoise colour.  Jim and Johnny had a dive on the reef and then the peace was destroyed when the compressor was lifted out to fill the bottles again.
The weekend was extremely windy and the following day we decided to do an overnight passage to Huahine. However the wind died away during the night and we had to fire up the donkey for assistance. The pass through the reef to the north anchorage on Huahine was straightforward, and the leading marks very clear. We anchored off the main village , Fare, and went ashore to explore with Ann and Keith from Ketchup 2. We were really surprised to find so many shops etc. and a huge supermarket which reminded us of the ones in Donegal which sell absolutely everything.
We treated ourselves to steak and fries on the way back from one of the many snack vans near the harbour.
The following morning was a different story - the swell was much stronger and the surf was breaking high over the reef closeby. After a quick last trip to the supermarket, we moved south down the lagoon leaving only 2 boats in the anchorage. We motored with a very strong current against us, past houses and hotels to port and breakers and surf to starboard. The anchor went down in Baie Avea where the sea was flat , with palm trees and lovely beaches.
Anchored beside us was a Dutch yacht, Pegasus, with 2 young guys on board - Florian and Arjen. They are sailing round the world to raise awareness of what is happening to the oceans. Their project is called The Green Miles.nl. Unfortunately they had some engine problems and Jim went over to give them a hand but nothing could be done until they got to Raiatea to get parts.
After a 6 hour sail across to Raiatea we were anchored together again beside a pretty motu - a small island with palm trees and coral beaches. To Fluer, a Norwegian boat with 4 young guys on board travelling for UNICEF joined the party. In actual fact we did have a party/sing-song on board Pegasus that night - now they all know The bog down in the valley'o song.!!
Raiatea was reported to be a good place to stock up so we took the opportunity of coming alongside the town dock and raiding the supermarket.
The island of Tahaa was our next stop - just a short motor from Raiatea and in the same lagoon. We picked up a mooring in front of the yacht club and although it was free, it was not that sheltered but nevertheless we made it ashore for a sundowner in the bar.
The following day we left for Bora Bora in much lighter winds and once through the pass we could see yacht Vittoria in the distance struggling to make headway. We'd heard on the VHF radio that they had no engine so as we got closer we called them up to see if they wanted a tow. They accepted the offer and we towed them successfully right to a mooring off Bloody Mary's restaurant in Bora Bora. As we approached the moorings a guy in a dinghy came to meet us and we could recognise it was our friend Andy from Chinook 2 from home. We had been slowly catching him up for months and now at last we had!
Our reward for the tow was a meal in the exclusive Bloody Marys which otherwise we wouldn't have had.
The scenery at Bora Bora was stunning and our favourite anchorage was beside another idyllic motu - Motu Tapu. This was supposedly private and used by hotels for parties and weddings, but we were able to go ashore most evenings with friends and enjoy the sunset. The wind finally forced us away from there to a mooring at Bora Bora yacht club. Aftera couple of nights there it was time to prepare to leave French Polynesia for Suwarrow. We provisioned up for a last time, checked out with a very grumpy gendarme and made ready to leave. At the same time our friends Ann and Keith on Ketchup 2 were making their own preparations to return to Raiatea to lay up on the hard and then fly home to Australia where Ann's father was in hospital.This is almost the end of an era as we have been with or closeby K2 for several months now since Panama, but hopefully we will see them in Oz next year.
The strong winds delayed our departure for a day or so but on Tues. 18 Aug. we sailed through the pass out of Bora Bora and happily bid farewell to baguettes and overpriced supermarkets but sadly left behind the stunning scenery, clear turquoise lagoons, colourful fishes and scary sharks !!

26 July 2009 - Marquesas to Tahiti

Tahiti

We passed Point Venus where Cpt. Cook landed and continued on to Papeete Pass where we called up Port Control to ask for clearance to enter the lagoon. We motored in and negotiated the buoys past the airport runway and down to the deep water anchorage at marina Taina. We anchored 3 times (using our human windlass!) before finally settling beside our Finnish friends on Libertas. It was quite a shock to see so many boats in the anchorage and a big marina. A few old friends were already here enjoying being back in civilisation. The following morning and a 20min bus ride later found us in downtown Papeete to check in. Papeete is the only big port in French Polynesia where all the French administrative services and local government are located. There are banks, shops, a really colourful market and traffic jams as well. Within walking distance of the anchorage was a huge Carrefour supermarket in a small shopping mall.  This was the biggest store we had been in since Panama and we were excited to see such a vast array of goods - even if they were very expensive!
In Colon, Panama, we met Jean-do and Marie Christine off a yacht called Exocet. They live in Tahiti and were bringing their new boat back from France. Jim had arranged for Lucy to post his consignment of medication to Jean-do's house so we could pick it up when we got to Tahiti.  After locating Jean -do in the marina, we were invited to their apartment for dinner. We enjoyed a delicious meal and the parcel was there waiting for us.
The local festival or 'Heiva i Tahiti' was in full swing around Bastille Day, and there were lots of events going on. In the grounds of the Tahiti museum we watched javelins being thrown at a coconut on top of a long pole, men trying to lift a huge stone and teams of 3 women halving coconuts with a machete and scooping out the copra. It was all very competitive and the crowd watching cheered them on.
In contrast we went to town for an outdoor evening show of Polynesian dancing and singing. The costumes were fantastic and the dance moves were amazing- male and female!
After a few more trips to Carrefour, it was time to take a last bus ride into Papeete to check out.
On 21 July, we set off for Moorea through the south pass from the anchorage. We thought this would be an easy 15 mile sail but how wrong we were!  Things were fine at the start but after about an hour we could see white water ahead and once we hit that, things became very different.  With gusts up to 30 knots and rough seas we were glad to get the anchor down in Cook's Bay, Moorea.

The Tuamotus.

The passage to the Tuamotus was about 500 miles and we had quite a mixed bag of weather on the way. On the 3rd day out, a lucky strike on a lure made with a crisp packet , rewarded us with a nice big dorado. Yum ! The next morning we were able to see the low outline of Kauehi atoll. The entrance through the pass was fine with 3 knots of current going with us. The main village is the far side of the lagoon and there, we anchored with a few other boats.When we went ashore the locals were very friendly and we were able to buy black pearls from the lady who owned the supermarket. We visited her house and she had a bag of large pearls and another of smaller ones which we spread out on her table to look at.  Although they weren't top grade pearls, they were very pretty and a good price.
A day sail took us to our next atoll - Fakarava. This is the second largest atoll in the Tuamotus, and the northern pass into it , although very wide, had some choppy water in the centre. We sneaked in to one side where the water was calmer.
The main anchorage was at the village of Rotoava, and our Danish friend, Johnny (on Vindil) had arrived just before us from the Marquesas. We were able to get stores and fresh bread at the supermarket along with delicious spring rolls! (locally known as 'nem')
Jim and Johnny were keen to dive the north pass and organised a dive with Jean Christophe of Teava Nui Plongee, the local dive school. His slogan is ' All dives without a shark are free' !! They both enjoyed what they called an advanced dive and saw plenty of sharks. I settled for snorkelling on a small reef close to Balu where there were plenty of colourful fish and no sharks!
Ann and I went to the local primary school end of term concert one morning. It was staged outdoors and we were presented with a sweet smelling garland of tiare flowers to wear. Each class performed and afterwards we met one of the teachers and had a look in a classroom. Once a teacher, always a teacher!!
After several days at the north end of Fakarava, we made a short stop half way down the eastern side before heading on to the southern end. Here we anchored in the designated spot and the water was crystal clear. A short dinghy ride took us to the south pass where we beached the dinghy and went snorkelling. It was amazing to see so many different colourful fish swimming around our feet as we put our fins on. Even a huge Napoleon wrasse and the black tip sharks were swimming in less than a metre of water. Swimming out through a gap in the reef and then along the wall of the reef we could see lots more sharks, black tips and white tips. Jim saw grey sharks deeper down as he was diving with a pony bottle on. The visibility was 30m + and it was like being inside an aquarium!!
After the snorkelling I went to find the little church made of coral. A local lady unlocked it for me to have a look inside. It was built in 1862 - old by Polynesian standards and was decorated with mother of pearl inside.
The weather rather dictated when we should leave the Tuamotus. Jim was keen to do more diving but the following day we left for Tahiti. Two days later at dawn we could see the island and the closer we got the more attractive it looked.

 

Land ahoy! The Marquesas.

At 05.00hrs on the morning of Thurs. 21 May, the skipper sighted land. The Marquesas at last. The island of Hiva Oa was to be our first landfall and we came in to Taahuku Bay around lunchtime. After the normal anchoring procedure we put out an additional stern anchor, which seemed to be the norm there.
We were invited over to Ketchup 2 for a welcome sundowner.
The following morning we hitched a lift into the village of Atuona to clear in, after negotiating the deadly dinghy dock. The swell makes getting ashore really difficult and dangerous.
After the paperwork in the Gendarmerie we walked up the hill to the cemetary to see Paul Gauguin's grave. This seems to be quite a tourist attraction.
Chores like washing and refuelling were next on the list before heading off to the next island, Tahuata.
There we anchored in a bay along with quite a few old friends. The water was nice and clear and a couple of manta rays kept swimming close to Balu to keep us entertained. The following day we moved to a bay further south and went ashore with Del and Gary (off T Rex).  After drinking some delicious coconut milk ashore we retuned to Balu with a couple of coconuts for the store.
Hanavave Bay on Fatu Hiva was our next stop, and en route we were accompanied by some friendly spotty dolphins. By this time Jim was suffering from symptoms of ciguatera (fish poisoning) so we were glad to find a small patch of sand for our anchor in a stunningly scenic bay. The backdrop to the village consisted of steep sided, pointy spires towering up above us. An inland attraction was a waterfall which I hiked to with Ann and Keith (from Ketchup 2) and Del and Gary. Jim was unable to go as he was still under the weather. We all had a cool swim in the pool beneath the fall before heading back.
On Fatu Hiva there is no bank and money is of little use. Most of the trading is done with goods. We managed to trade old rope, an old anchor, t-shirts, earrings, nail varnish, an old digital watch etc. etc. for beautiful wooden handcarved tikis, turtles, a kava dish, a jewellery box, tapa (hand painted wood bark) and a hand painted pareo. It was much more fun than using cash and took a whole afternoon !
On Sunday morning Ann and I went to the village church to hear the music and singing. The church was quite full and everyone was very friendly. Polynesians are very musical and there were guitars and ukeleles to accompany the harmonious singing. That was the finale in Fatu Hiva as we left to head north to Ua Pou.

After a lively overnight sail we arrived at Ua Pou around 08.00hrs on 1st May. We went ashore to the dinghy dock to be greeted by lots of little blennies who appeared to be happier slithering over the rocks rather than swimming in the sea. Once ashore , believe it or not it was May Bank Holiday here and everything was closed. This anchorage too had a dramatic backdrop with steep, spikey spires.
The following day we did a bread run but arrived at the boulangerie too late ( it was only 8am!) - all the baguettes had gone. We had better luck the following day and whilst ashore we saw the ruins of a pae pae, an old Polynesian dwelling.

It was time to head further north again and the next day with Ketchup 2 ahead, we arrived in Nuku Hiva , the main island in the Marquesas. We anchored in Controller Bay at the east end of the island. The scenery was similar to that of a Scottish loch. Stretching inland from the bay we could see the famous Taipi Valley. This was where Herman Melville (author of Moby Dick) and his friend Tobias Greene sought refuge after jumping ship in Taiohae Bay in the mid 1800's. Life on a whaling ship had got too much for them but I wonder did they know that the people of Taipi were known as the cannibal's cannibal !!
After a couple of days we moved west to Taiohae Bay which is the main settlement on Nuku Hiva. The bay is very big and there was plenty of room for the 30+ boats that were anchored there. We reported to the Gendarmerie and had a look around the town . It was extremely clean and tidy , with 2 good supermarkets, a bank, post office and a few other shops selling tikis, beads etc. A new market had been built close to the dock but was not yet opened. Unfortunately there was no drinking water available to top up the tanks. We saw our friends Olivier and Lyn with baby Zia before we left for Daniel's Bay, 5 miles to the west.
This was to be our final stop on Nuku Hiva.
Daniel's Bay is practically land locked by steep hills and very picturesque. However, my most vivid memory is not just so pleasant! It all started when we took the dinghy to an adjoining bay to get water at the village. I had to hold the dinghy on the beach in the surf as the breakers were rolling in while Jim went to fill the jerrycans. By the time we got back to Balu I had approximately 800+ sand fly bites on my back and arms!  The terrible itching that was to follow for several days and nights was unbearable.
Our walk to the waterfall the following day gave some relief when we swam in a lovely pool of cool water through to a huge cavern and right under the fall.
The time had come to move on and the following day we left for the Tuamotus .


07 June 2009 - Ciguatera (fish poisoning)

As we left anchorage in the beautiful anchorage of Hana Moe Noa in Tahuata, to head for Fatu Hiva, we were offered some fish which had been caught in the bay by a neighbouring yacht and gladly accepted. The crossing to Fatu Hiva is an all day affair but the trade winds had shifted to the north of east so we were able to lay the course and had a super sail on port tack.
We arrived as the sun set, having had marinated fish for lunch and we anchored close to the Irish catamaran "Gillaroo" who had found a good sandy spot close in to the landing stage in the bay.  Marion then cooked more of the fish for dinner, and we retired for the night.  By midnight the symptoms started with abdominal cramps, diarrhoea, tingling of the tongue, fingers and feet.  By morning the symptoms included extreme weakness and fatigue following the slightest effort, and blood pressure was lowered.  As the days passed the symptoms lessened but in a cyclical way coming and going.  Sensations of hot and cold are altered so that cold things almost feel hot. Intolerable itching of the extremities started after a couple of days usually after sunset, but one of the most bizarre symptoms was suddenly feeling cold here in the cabin when the temperature was at least 30 centigrade, and having to put on a fleece and socks!
Well its ten days later now and most of the symptoms have subsided to a tolerable level but yours truly is certainly not going to be eating reef fish again for a while!  In fact my next fish will probably be cod in batter with chips from the Whiteabbey chippy!

Note
Ciguatera is a condition caused by eating reef fish than have been feeding on algae which grows on dead coral. The toxin is produced by a microscopic organism, a dinoflagellate called Gambierdiscuss toxicus.  These organisms which grow on the surface of marine algae are eaten by herbiverous fish.Because the toxin accumulates in the fish, any fish up the food chain can become toxic, and there is a build up of neurotoxin in the flesh of the fish which affects the nervous system if the fish are eaten. Symptoms are varied but poisoning can be fatal.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ciguatera

20 May 2009 - The Strange Case of the Dive Tank

The tale that follows is absolutely true!, however as I don't wish to be involved in or to get anyone else involved in litigation I'll be a little "economic" with some of the details.
On a certain island in the torrid zones (clue they have some very large tortoises there) it was discovered that dive bottles could be filled for $5 now that's not a bad price in my book so a number of cruisers decided to avail of the facility (picture available). One of my friends an Aussie took in his pair of alloy tanks for a fill as he needed to give the hull a good scrub for the long trip ahead.
The next day I met him in the bar/ internet cafe and asked if he got his bottles back OK.  He told me that the filling house claimed his tank had exploded!  On hearing this I went with him across the road to the filling station and inquired where the remains of the tank were.  Gone! they said, where! I said, We don't know and we don't want to know! said they! Well I know that if you pump 5HP into a tank for 30 mins there is a fair bit of energy there to be released!, and it would certainly be able, if not likely to take the tank a long way away if pointed in the right direction, but you would expect a fair bit of devastation to be evident at the charging station!
Anyway being of a conservative nature my friend decided that if one of his tanks had exploded its twin might just do the same thing and since they had last been tested by Moses just after he brought down the stone tablets from the mountain, he decided to leave the other tank for the filling station to dispose of. I should say that whilst not particularly concerned at the described occurrence the filling station were quite happy to provide my friend with one of their tanks FOC to clean down the boats undersides.
After he left the said island he suggested by radio that if I wanted I could pick up the remaining bottle, so I decided that might be a good idea and thereby became the "keeper" of a potential bomb.  To reduce any likelihood of explosion I decanted some of the contents into one of my small pony cylinders, to reduce the pressure, and used the remaining contents of the tank to clean the barnacles off Balu's hull and to free the wedged anchor chains of a couple of yachts who were having trouble parting company with the aforementioned island.
With the bottle empty I took out the pillar valve and had a look inside and found nothing amiss or strange. So I'll be recommending to my friend that he has the bottle tested soon but other than that the disappearing bottle is still a mystery. Suggestions on a postcard please
James BALU "Somewhere in the Pacific"

May 2009 - Halfway there

In the Middle of Nowhere
What's it like out there in the middle of the ocean weren't you afraid? That's one of the most FAQs for a long distance sailor.  Well now that we are in mid pacific with the Galapagos 1500 miles astern and French Polynesia 1500 ahead it's perhaps an appropriate time to address that question.
The first impression of the ocean is its vastness, you could probably fit 50 Irelands comfortably into the band we are sailing through now and still have a good deal of room left. In that vast space there are about 20 boats on our radio net , perhaps another 20 are on various other nets and at a guess a further 20 have no HF radios so that's 60 in total in the space of 50 Irelands so its no wonder one doesn't see much of other vessels! in fact our closest neighbour in 300 miles ahead about the distance from Larne to Cork.

Chafe!
This Ocean sailing is hard on the gear! hour after hour day after day the running rigging ( thats all the ropes and stuff) is working away and moging in and out, so if there is a sharp turn or rough spot wear soon occurs so far the steering lines have chaffed through 3 times and the topping lift on the boom has worn through as for the genoa sheets well they are about done in! SO on arrival in the Marquessas we will have to look at giving everything an overhaul!

Distress
We just heard on the radio and by email that a Canadian yacht "Inherit the Wind" ahead of us is leaking badly and the engine is out of action so the crew are pumping manually to keep her floating. The two boats next ahead of us are standing by her, and will accompany her into port. fortunately they have only a couple of hundred miles left to go until they reach safety I hope they make it OK

Monday 4th May 2009 - Passage to the Marquesas

May Bank Holiday finds us in the WIDE expanse of the Pacific a week into the trip to the Marquesas nearly 1000 miles behind and about 2000 ahead. This is one big stretch of water! The trip started with a doldrummy area of light airs and some squalls which we managed to miss thank goodness as there was a fair bit of lightning in them. After a few days as we worked SW into the tradewinds we started to get more consistent winds and have had  good days runs of 160 miles but mostly around the 130 miles a day range.
Early on we caught a couple of smallish fish, a frigate tuna and a dorado but our luck has run out over the last few days. There are plenty of flying fish though and the deck needs to be cleared up every morning . Sometimes we can hear them thudding off the doghouse windows - the lucky ones we notice get returned back to the sea. If we don't catch some fish soon it may have to be flying fish soup!
The ocean round these parts is a pretty empty place and we haven't seen another boat, ship or aircraft since we cleared the Galapagos so the lookout watch seems somewhat superfluous. However we do have radio contact with the other boats making the passage but they are for the most part about 1000 miles ahead . A good passage for reading!
M & J

ps Caught a wahoo for tea - just in time!

April 2009 - Galapagos

No sooner had we anchored in Wreck Bay than we were boarded by the Port Captain Carlos. He was dressed head to toe in naval combats and black boots in the equatorial heat!! After he inspected our papers and enjoyed a can of Fanta, we had to locate our agent Fernando and go ashore to get copies made of our papers and to pay the agents fee of $75, the Port Captains $90 and immigration $15. We were granted 21 days stay in Galapagos provided Balu stayed in Wreck Bay. Most of the paperwork took place in the Fed-Ex office / supermarket where Camilla had everything organised.
Our first visitor proved to be "Nipper" our very own pet sea lion, who made himself at home on our stern platform. The sea lions were omnipresent in the bay and really were the owners of the place. They hauled out everywhere - on jettys, pontoons and steps in addition to dinghies, stern scoops, benches and the beach.
After the initial formalities things were very relaxed and the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno with its 5000 inhabitants, was clean and friendly and we felt quite safe there in sharp contrast with Colon and Panama City.
Food and beer was cheap and as there was always a good degree of waiting (it being Latin America) we conveniently found ourselves "waiting" with the other crews in the bar at the end of the jetty, where wifi was also available. We also frequented Rosely's restaurant regularly at lunchtimes (along with the locals) for a bowl of soup (which sometimes had hens feet in !) a fish/meat main course with rice and salad and a jug of juice all for $2.50 each. Bargain! Another favourite was a street vendor who sold some very tasty local treats in the evenings. We usually took this back to the boat to eat with a glass of red wine. Yum!
Transport to the shore was generally by water taxi at the princely sum of 50 cents (35p) and was very convenient and kept the sea lions from making a home in our dinghy.
One morning we took the dinghy into the rocks to spy out some marine iguanas but instead of iguanas we saw blue footed boobies and I went for a swim / snorkel with the sea lions who were very playful.
Another morning we walked to the Interpretive Centre near the University and then took a walk through the bush to a small beach near the point where Darwin landed on his famous visit. There we saw quite a few marine iguanas and saw them feeding underwater.
We took an organised trip with a few of our friends on a dive catamaran to Kicker Rock where we dived with the Galapagos shark and everyone had a snorkel with sea lions and watched the marine iguanas and turtles feeding underwater.
No stay on San Cristobal would be complete without a visit to the giant tortoises. These creatures were decimated by ships for food in earlier centuries. We teamed up with the crews of Apogee, Libertas and Vindil and hired a taxi to take us to the tortoise sanctuary to see the captive breeding programme and the giants in their natural habitat. The concept was good as the small area on San Cristobal which is now home to the remaining giant tortoises is left wild and unaffected by tourists eager to see and possibly disturb them. Interestingly enough there were no charges for the visit to the tortoises. Now that wouldn't happen in the UK!!
Our agent Fernando organised a barbecue at his house  for all the yachts one evening for a nominal fee. His family were all involved in the cooking and serving and later a South American pan pipe group entertained us and of course had cds for sale!! It was a good night bringing all the yachties together for what they do best , eating and drinking!!
Eventually the boats in the anchorage started to "thin out" and we knew it was time to prepare for the 3000 mile passage to French Polynesia. So after a couple of scrubs of Balu's bottom and a farewell to friends old and new we weighed anchor on 27th April and set off for our longest passage so far and probably our longest ever!
Adios Galapagos, a truly special place.

April 2009 - Crossing the Line

The trip down to Galapagos is a frustrating one to make because of light winds, cool seas and foul current, but its just a question ofcarrying what sail you can and try to keep  moving in the appropriate direction. Under the circumstances 90 miles a day was considered a fair days run and with the help of our new assymetric spinnaker we managed to avoid motoring ( except for a short period). Eventually we made it to the line and crossed at 87.4 degrees west on Mon. 13th April. In due course, Neptune himself arrived on board to check us 'polywogs' out (a polywog is a sailor who hasn't crossed the Equator).  I was surprised to find that he bore a startling resemblence to the skipper and had similar tastes , devouring an Ulster fry Marion had made  for the occasion, and a beer! After he left, Old Mother Carey came aboard in her finery looking remarkably like the first mate!  In any case, we were passed as 'shellbacks' due to having been north of the Arctic circle!
The following day, we sighted the island of San Cristobal in the moonlight and spent the mornimg motoring down the coast as the wind had died. It was remarkably green considering what we had read. We expected a volcanic landscape such as Lanzarote in the Canaries but the plant life has a good hold on the island despite the surfeit of volcanic boulders. On Tuesday 14th April we cast anchor in Wreck Bay after a passage of 9 days and 884 miles, although we had sailed well over 1000 due to the foul current.

Monday 13th April 2009 - Over the Line!

Hi All
We crossed the line last night ( to us!) but 0300 Monday morning to you guys. So we are finally in the south pacific and now we have only 87 miles to go to the Galapagos, where we will stay for a couple of weeks I guess, as long as they don't throw us out!
  It seems radio communications from the Galapagos are poor so it may be impossible to get pactor emails out for a bit but I'm sure we will be able to get some internet ashore, so we can make contact that way.
We are looking forward to seeing giant tortoises and blue footed boobies Marine iguanas etc not to mention the penguins and sea lions and perhaps hammerhead sharks too.
  So far the pacific has been living up to its name and the only problem we have had is light winds and foul currents but that's no surprise as the old timers used to heave too of the islands at night prior to going in to anchor in the morning, only to find that in the morning the islands had gone! thus they got the name "enchanted isles".
Its a place of contrasts because during the day it's baking hot under the sun, but at night it's quite cold with a heavy dew on everything, and you can wear a fleece quite comfortably.
It looks like we escaped the worst of the doldrums as they moved north of us before we left and with luck they will not slip south again to catch us out, so after Galapagos we should be able to gently edge down into the trades again for the trip to Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa.
All the best JIM

Tuesday 7th April 2009 - In the Pacific

Pacific at last!
The moon is about to set and the wind is falling light. We are now into the Pacific at last and it's living up to its name.  The North Star is now low on the horizon and we will soon leave it behind as we cross into the southern hemisphere.  The sun passed overhead today and is now to the north of us which seems a bit strange!  As we sail down towards the Galapagos the nights are surprisingly cold due to the cold Humbolt current, and I have been wearing my heavy fleece on deck despite being under the sun and close to the equator, the daytime is however a different story with no hiding place on deck under the sun's rays!
We passed through the Panama Canal a couple of weeks back in company with a number of other yachts, including an Australian yacht "Honeymoon", which we had last seen in EABC Larne in 2007. Her crew Don and Agnes remember the warm welcome they received in the club, and especially from Rab who told them they were flying the wrong courtesy flag.
  Whilst we waited at the north end of the canal anchored in "the Flats" at Colon for our turn to transit, we made use of the Panama Yacht Club. The yacht club in Colon is, like EABC, adjacent to the panama port authority, however the port authority had decided to evict them and as the club representatives seem to have failed to come to a satisfactory agreement with the port, they were served an eviction notice just as the bar closed at 0100am in the morning of a bank holiday, when no court injunction could be obtained to stay the process, and the demolition diggers moved in the next morning! . So as we were there the dinghy dock was still available for landing but armed security guards controlled the access to the demolished premises. And latest reports from yachts recently transiting the canal indicate that to facilities are completely closed now!, port authorities are dangerous neighbours for boat clubs!

Friday 3rd April 2009 - From the ABCs through the Panama Canal

Bonaire was really convenient for diving and snorkelling because you just fall off the boat at the mooring and its crystal clear water and wall to wall fish. We did go to other dive sites in the dinghy which are all marked with a named buoy, even the shore sites are marked at the roadside as you drive along.
We hired a pick-up for a day and headed off to the National Park with our Kiwi friends , Karen and Graham from Red Herring II. Its a one way route around the park , over some quite rough tracks. We saw iguanas, flamingoes and some dramatic coastal scenery.
Back in the anchorage, Mike and Ann called over from their catamaran Mojo. Its a small world - they used to be liveaboards in Carrickfergus marina!!
We left Bonaire early on Valentines Day (also Jim's birthday) and arrived in Curacao at lunchtime. The anchorage, called Spanish Water was pretty full of boats, quite a few of which we knew. Red Herring had a birthday dinner all ready for Jim! As it was the weekend, we waited until Monday before getting the bus to Wilhelmstad to do the paperwork. This turned out to be quite a lengthy process as all the offices were so far apart, but we got a good view of the lovely Dutch style buildings on the waterfront.
Our friends Jeannette and Charles who we met on our Atlantic circuit 3 years ago, now live here and came to meet us. They took us to Budget Marine where ,at last, we ordered a new inflatable dinghy.(it arrived the next day - such excitement! Hopefully no more wet bottoms!) Our faithful old dinghy 'Ruby', has found a new home with Johnny (a Danish singlehander on Vindil) who promises to treat her well. We'll miss her!! On a second rendezvous with Charles and Jeannette , they took us to their lovely home for lunch and then for a tour round the island. After a dive the following day, we said goodbye to them as it was time to head westwards to the San Blas islands.
This turned out to be quite a rolly 700 mile passage but 5 days later we were anchored in East Holandes Cays. Francisco and Alberto, both Kuna indians, came alongside in their dugout canoe to collect $5 cruising tax. We had a refreshing swim and then went ashore to a desrted island for a birthday party with the other boats.
Amazingly there is mobile coverage on some of the 360 islands and on 1st March, Lucy sent a text to say we had to phone her on our satellite phone. (we really only have this for emergencies)Naturally we thought the worst but were delighted to find out that Lucy and Donal had just got engaged! How exciting! Congratulations.Just wish we could have beamed ourselves home for a night to join in the celebrations.
We went to several anchorages in the San Blas, met some charming Kunas and bought some 'molas'.(traditionally hand stitched reverse applique panels) On one island, the teenage Kunas came rushing over to ask us to take their mobile phones back to the boat to charge. Not the sort of request you would expect from people who live in huts on remote islands!
As the wind increased on the islands,we left for Nalia, a more sheltered anchorage on the mainland amongst the mangroves. There we had a tranquil weekend and were able to buy fish and vegetables from the locals who called out in their dugout canoes. Then it was back out to Chichime on the islands for another windy night and on to Isla Linton the next day to hopefully see the monkeys. Two of them were very pleased to see us and enjoyed some biscuits!
Two hours of a sail the next day brought us to Portobelo, passing the small island at the entrance where they buried Sir Francis Drake. The anchorage is very picturesque with forts on either side of the bay, complete with guns.The town is steeped in pirate history with some old buildings and the famous Black Christ in the church.
Our crew for the last couple of months, Tristan, left us here as he was flying from Panama to Vancouver to start the next part of his adventure.
Our next stop was Colon, the Atlantic end of the Panama Canal. We'd already heard what a nasty place this was and it certainly lived up to it. Most of the Panama Canal Yacht Club had recently been demolished by the harbour authorities who want the land, and you daren't walk outside the gate for fear of being mugged. We could still land the dinghy there ok and wifi was available outside the makeshift office. Taxis were the mode of transport for safety reasons - we heard of 2 attacks on yachties when we were there. Spending at least a week here is unavoidable because of all the paperwork necessary for transitting the canal. With all our friends here too, we were able to arrange a linehandling timetable (each yacht requires 4 linehandlers) which meant nobody had to hire any linehandlers. We helped on an Oz yacht, Vagabond Heart, and it was good to find out what was involved before we bought Balu through. Our visit from the admeasurer turned out to be quite a social event, as he took a can of beer and played the guitar for us! Our agent ,Tito, wasn't the most reliable of guys as he lost our cruising permit temporarily, but at least he turned up with the 10 tyres and 4 lines we needed to transit. Our first advisor came on board at the anchorage in Colon and he got us safely through the first set of locks at Gatun and then up to a mooring buoy on the lake where we spent the night. The following morning, after being woken by the howler monkeys, our next advisor arrived and we motored for about 5 hours to the first of the 'down' locks at Pedro Miguel.When we got to the last 2 locks at Mireflores, I texted Lucy and Luke to let them know they might be able to see us on the Canal webcam - and they did! After Larry , our advisor was picked up by the canal launch we stopped at Balboa yacht club to return the tyres and lines to Tito and headed on to the anchorage at La Playita, relieved it had all gone so well and here we are in the Pacific! After our own transit we returned again for a third transit to help Johnny on Vindil. Think we're 'canalled out' after 6 days in succession!!
The Pacific side was very different from Colon. From the anchorage we could see the sky scrapers of Panama City and a smog appeared to hang over them. It was great to be able to walk ashore safely round to the wifi bars, and see other people strolling , cycling and rollerblading along the promenade. Bus rides into town were only 25cents and taxis were pretty cheap too. There was a cruiser net on the radio at 8am in the mornings and anything you wanted to know, someone always had an answer. After a few trips to the supermarkets and I even got my hair cut in one of the malls, we were ready to leave the rat race and head off to the Perlas islands.
We arrived yesterday on Isla Contradora and will probably stay to clean the latest crop of barnacles off the hull and then go to a few more of the islands before heading off to Galapagos - there's no wind at the moment anyway ! !

 

Tuesday 24 February 2009 - Rollin' along

Hi There
        We are just zipping along about 50miles off the Columbian coast the trade wind is very fresh and the current is with us so we have had I think our best days run for a long time if not ever of 164miles. If all goes well we should arrive in San Blas islands on Friday night or Saturday morning, probably the latter as we will lose the current and have lighter winds in theory as we near the Panama coast.
Happy birthday wishes to Donal ( Big 31! nearly half dead! Ha Ha!) have a good one! and a few beers! We are on rations here as we have only about 70 small cans to last the trip plus perhaps a fortnight in the San Blas islands where there are no shops! so its going to be 1 can a day!
The other boats we know are all ahead as they are bigger faster and left earlier but they can suss the anchorage out for us and we are in regular HF radio contact with them.
 Tristan is feeling much better today he took a trip into Willemstad for the carnival on Sunday and had to be shovelled back on board so he was a wee bit soupy yesterday!  It was one of Micks "Oh Deary me" days!
 Had a good few dives on Curaco its more relaxed than Bonaire and you can just turn up at any of the dive shacks and hire a bottle the bottle hire was 15 guilders (about £6) so its a cheaper way to dive than the PADI Guide system! The wildlife was really special with several speciesof fish I hadn't seen before.
 Hope you are all well and look forward to hearing all the news
 James and Marion

Saturday 31 January 2009 - Scotland Bay

Hi All
      Its been a while since we sent out an update of our progress. Well today we are moored up to a couple of trees on the west side of Scotland bay in Trinidad with the anchor out ahead in soft mud. there are about ten boats in the bay in total and we are hiding here from the rush of local pirogues that race about Chaguaramas at the weekends. Its peaceful here with a friendly green turtle who pops up here and there around the boat for a breath of air. We just had a pretty kingfisher land on the
branch of our mooring tree for a look. The parrots wake us in the morning and we can hear but not yet see the howler monkeys as they call to each other in the forest. Tropical bats, pelicans, egrets and vultures complete the picture.
Probably tomorrow we will up anchor and head over to the abandoned leper colony in Chacachacare island to have a look round before heading back in to Chaguaramas for supplies before we clear to the ABC's ( Aruba Bonaire and Curaco). We are hoping to get some good diving in there and to meet up again with Grahame and Karen of Red Herring2.
Yours truly tried his hand at " waterskiing!" on my crocs! ashore yesterday on the slimey concrete base that the jungle has almost reclaimed from the american wartime base that used to be here . As a result I landed on my head on the concrete and split it open with a mighty thump! It quietened me down a bit! so I have been lying low today to give it a chance to heal.
Chaguaramas gave us a chance to get a few jobs done including procuring american visas so we will have the option of a visit to hawaii if we want to escape the south pacific cyclone season by heading into the north pacific! The vane steering got its 30,000mile service somewhat late I fear but the spare kit proved by Scanmar was really good and included 99% of the parts we needed!. One part (The Latch) was cracking so we got that welded ashore in the stainless fabrication workshop, so it should hold until we can get a replacement ordered and delivered from america somehow.
More anon

James Marion and Tristan
 

Weds 21 January 2009 - Chaguaramas, Trinidad


Just when we thought we had seen the last of able seaman Mick Magee, at 06.30hrs on Weds morning, there was a loud 'good morning everyone' from the cockpit!
It was Mick - he had forgotten his passport !!  What a good job he remembered before Severence had set sail from the Lagoon. When we got up a couple of hours later, sure enough they were gone.
My chore for that day was to use the laundry facilities in the Yacht Club. Not much of a chore really as all I had to do was load the machine and sit in the bar sipping a lemonade until it was done!
Later on Bob and Betsy from Belair invited us on board for a sundowner along with Peter and Raewyn from  Saliander, Calvin and Jane from Wingbeat and Alan and Ann from Freya of Troon.  This was followed by another yummy meal at the yacht club.
In preparation for leaving Grenada, Jim and Tristan did 2 runs over to the yacht club with water drums in order to fill the tanks .
The following day the boys went ashore to clear out , but had to make a 2nd trip as Tristan had forgotten a receipt which was issued at the airport on his arrival with an all important number on it.  We wouldn't have been able to leave without this.  Finally we left the Lagoon after a quick trip to Foodland to use up the last of our EC$.
We anchored in True Blue Bay at the south end of Grenada to have our tea and had a nice surprise when Lucy texted to say her boyfriend Donal had been awarded a trip to South America for all his hard work.  That called for a celebratory beer!
We left in the dark to sail overnight to Trinidad.  This was to be Tristan's first  night passage and fortunately the sky was clear with millions of stars and the sea full of bioluminescence.  Lots of sparkles above and below.  With just the genoa out we were struggling to keep up to windward so around midnight we hoisted the main and our progress improved.  There were a few ships about (fortunately no Venezuelan pirates) and early in the morning we passed the oil platforms.   A pair of bottlenose dolphins appeared around 07.00hrs on Jim's watch but scarpered before Tristan could get a look at them.
Safely through 'The Dragon's Mouth', against a very strong adverse current we arrived at the Customs Dock in Chaguaramas about 14.30hrs only to hear someone shouting to us from the opposite dock.  It was our friend Jim Massey from Carrickfergus on Shakwe.  At last we had caught up with him and his new boat!!
Paperwork completed, we looked for a mooring but they were all full so we anchored.  Later on Jim Massey brought Shakwe out from Coral Cove Marina on to a buoy he had reserved earlier and we went on board for a rum and a reunion!
In the morning, Campbell, the water taxi operator, showed us a buoy we could use and we are much closer to the shore now. One disadvantage is the rocking about from the wakes of all the local boats that go past at one speed - full steam ahead!
We also have 2 other friends here, Tyrone (from Strangford) on Gillaroo and Celia and Anthony on Tomia  who we have met up with quite a few times.
One of the reasons for coming to Trinidad was to apply for US visas so that we would have the option of going to Hawaii.  The application process was all done online and this morning we had to be at the American Embassy at 08.30hrs for an interview. We had our forms checked and then sat with about another 100 applicants and waited to be called.  We were a bit concerned when 2 couples before us were refused visas, but we were successful and have to return to the Embassy on Tuesday next to collect them as we have no address for delivery.
Tied up to the dock here in Chaguaramas is the dive vessel Bibby Topaz.  The dive master on board is Stephen Ferris from Larne, who sails at East Antrim Boat Club.  Stephen visited Balu and very kindly took Tristan and Jim over to the ship to give them a tour.  Unfortunately - no women allowed !
As Stephen was now on leave, he decided to help Jim sail Shakwe up to Antigua, and that evening we had a farewell drink in the bar ashore, along with some of the divers off the Topaz.
Shakwe motored out of Chaguaramas after sunset the following day and we are looking forward to hearing how their first passage went.

Sun. 11th Jan 2009 - The lagoon, St George's, Grenada.


Happy New Year to everyone from Balu.

Santa managed to find Balu in Admiralty Bay, Bequia on Christmas Eve, although he must have been very hot in his red suit!

On Christmas morning we all had presents and cards to open which was great. My favourite one was a lovely bound album of photos of family and friends which Lucy and Luke had brought to Tenerife for us. It really is a treasure.

We even had turkey for dinner in the Devils Table restaurant along with our friend Wilhem, a Dutch /American singlehander - not quite the traditional style but very tasty. The 2 chefs were from Sweden and one of them asked me how we usually served it. When I told him, he laughed and said he'd never cooked it before!

Admiralty Bay became even more crowded for the New Year, probably because of the firework display on New Years Eve. Jim counted 192 boats at one stage. There was a strong wind blowing all week which made for a wet transfer to shore in the dinghy, so we used the water taxis for convenience a few times.

The pina coladas in the Frangipani hotel still tasted every bit as good as I remember and Mick enjoyed his first one. Needless to say there were many more!!

We enjoyed drinks on a kiwi boat , Saliander , on New Years Eve with Peter and Raywyn, and Mick went ashore to the Frangipani "jump-up' with Mandy, Peter's daughter.

At midnight the fireworks began and were very impressive for such a small island. These were followed by several red parachute flares let off by various yachts all over the anchorage. Luckily none of them landed on the deck of Balu.

We gave ourselves a layday on New Years Day to recover and on 2nd Jan we weighed anchor and left Bequia, one of our favourite Caribbean islands.

After a pleasant 5 hour sail we anchored in Canouan among a few other yachts, some of which were charter boats, as this was their base. We went ashore, landing at the pontoon in front of the Tamarind hotel and walked on through and up the main street. On our return we decided to have a quick beer in the hotel before returning to Balu for dinner. Bad move!

I still don't think we have recovered from the price of 3 beers!!  We got soaked in a squall as we went back to Balu - all in all not a great evening!

After a wet and windy night ,we were off again in the morning to the island of Mayreau - all of 7 miles away!  The buoy that marks the reef is no longer there, but we anchored safely in Saline bay. Not much has changed here from 3 years ago and we had a nice walk up the VERY steep hill to the village. The lady in the supermarket was interested to know what we thought of the place and told us that there were plans for developments in the future.

That night was much more peaceful and the morning found us off again, this time to Petite St Vincent. This was new territory for us, and we anchored off a gorgeous sandy beach in azure coloured, crystal clear water. It wasn't long before we were all in swimming needless to say.

We had to leave in the morning to keep our schedule, as Mick was hoping to meet a friend from home in a few days time in Grenada.  This meant a very quick sail over to Union Is. in order to clear out from St Vincent and the Grenadines. We walked to the airport and the paperwork was straightforward.

Our next port of call the following day was Hillsborough on the island of Carriacou where we would clear into Grenada. We anchored off the town along with our friend Steve in his catamaran, Blitz. Jim stayed on Balu to keep an eye on Balu and Blitz as the holding isn't all that good. The rest of us went ashore to do the necessary paperwork.

Like most of the other yachts , as soon as we were back on board we weighed anchor to move round the corner to Tyrell Bay , which has much better holding ground.

As we prepared to anchor we noticed yacht Kulkuri and our friend Jack. We hadn't seen Jack since our last time in the Caribbean so that evening we had a great reunion or 'tiffin' (as we are both members of the Imperial Poona Yacht Club) and it was 4am when I looked at my watch as I climbed into bed!!

The next day, Mick sailed down to Prickly Bay in Grenada with Steve so that he would be there in time for his rendezvous with his friend. We followed on the next day after catching up with Jack's travels, and to make sure we would be in Grenada to meet Tristan our new crew member who will be taking over from Mick.

We are now anchored in the Lagoon in St Georges, Grenada and it is very , very hot!

Since we have arrived Mick has been able to arrange a passage on another yacht going north to Antigua , and from there he hopes to get on a yacht heading back to Europe.

This means he will probably leave Balu in the next couple of days after spending 4 months or so with us.

He's been great fun to have on board and I hope he has enjoyed the experience.  He's already decided he's going to get his own boat one day, but he's trying to work out how he can go straight to retirement and miss out the 'work' bit


Tristan has arrived safe and sound. Lets hope he has a great time too.

Watch this space !

Marion
 

New Year's Eve Party

24 December 2008 - Merry Christmas!

Hi Everyone
          We finally made it to Bequia again, we arrived yesterday from Barbados after a brisk sail in the so called "Christmas winds"!
So we are hoping for a Merry Xmas here and wishing all of you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Best wishes from James, Marion and Mick on Balu

14 December 2008 - Atlantic weekend 13th/14th September

Not a great weekend here in the atlantic except for a few rain showerbaths for the captain and crew!
    Saturday at least had us sailing most of the day! but the winds are mostly light and the swell knocks the wind out of the sails and the slatting in the lulls is painful to endure! Saturday evening I found that there was something amiss with the vane steering, presently closer inspection revealed that the bevel gear had inverted and disengaged itself and there was no obvious way to reverse the process. Of course as always such things occur in the dark so we had to wait until daylight to investigate
further. It turned out that by removing the paddle and adjusting the connecting rod to the bevel gear it was just possible to right the small bevel gear and re-engage it.
      All we need now is a decent bit of NE trade wind 15 to 20 knots to let us try it out! I have still no idea what caused it!! Sunday so far has produced no decent amount of wind and so as Peadar is booked on his homeward flight for christmas turkey ! we need to keep the speed up with engine if necessary. at least we have a spare cargo of fuel on deck so we can accept a bit more engine work if that turns out to be required.

12  December 2008 - Days 9-12

Day 9  After our encounter with Red Herring we were able to set sail , slowly at first the wind started to return until by midnight we were sailing at 5kts. days run 107 miles.
Day 10 Weather predictions are indicating that the trade winds are returning thank goodness! making good progress Days run 133 miles.
Day 11  We caught another male dorado  just at dusk he will be for lunch! lots of rain squalls about with strong winds sea pretty lumpy had to reef everything down.
Had a good shower in the last rain squall, it was pretty refreshing as the rain is a lot colder than the sea! Days run 150 miles.
Day 12  had tried to run with twin headsails but found it very rolly with Balu rolling 25 degrees each way "Hell" then the wind  died away so we had to douse the lot before nightfall and rehoist the main. the North east trades have decided to become the Southeast trades! so a fair bit of gybing is required ( ie we have to change the sails over to set on the other side of the boat ) that makes for a fair bit of work on a bouncing deck. Days Run 122 miles

10 December 2008 - Close encounter

The dead calm had us motoring for 24 hours this was good news for the battery as its wee belly is full of electrons! A check on the fuel situation confirmed we had used 34 litres in 27 hours of motoring that was 1.25 litres an hour so not too bad for the fuel efficiency.
    During the night we could see a couple of vessels lights on the horizon and a VHF call in the morning identified one as "Red Herring 2" a boat,we have met before in the canaries, that left Mindelo the same day as Balu but had stopped overnight in Sao Anton before heading off after us. We were still motorsailing as the wind was very light so we increased revs and sidled up to them to take a few snaps,They then surged ahead on their spinnaker while we lagged behind under white sails only. A strange
encounter in mid ocean as we are now 1000 miles from Mindelo and 1000 miles from Barbados. An hour later we had True Blue pass close by us on their way to Barbados also.

8th December 2008 - Adrift!

So we had no wind and we are about 1000 miles from the nearest land! who cares? It has been rather hot around these parts  so we just hove Balu too and put the dive ladder down so Mick and the Skipper could enjoy a swim in mid atlantic. The water was crystal clear and pleasantly cool and refreshing considering that it was 26c! the sunbeams cut down through the clear water to untold depth , actually about 4300metres ( 3miles). Mick reports that looking down was a bit unnerving at first but up there
with his most memorable swims.

PS hope its not too cold back there in Ulster not much sign of christmas here
James

8th December 2008 - Dead Calm

Its 8 days out now and the wind is totally gone ( unless you consider 2 kts  wind!) So here we are 1103 miles from barbados with the motor running to charge the batteries! Not that they didn't need a good charge as there has been only light winds and a lot of the time we have had cloud cover so we didn't get a lot of help from the solar panels.
Last night we had the most awsome thunderstorms there was almost continuous lightning mostly between the clouds and thankfully we didn't find ourselves underneath one by good fortune.
Vagabond Heart was under the big one we saw astern and reported rough sea conditions and that most of the lightning was between the clouds themselves and not aimed down at the sea. Nevertheless they had their radio disconnected just in case.
We are hoping that the wind will pick up before the batteries are charged  but if its still calm at noon then we may heave too for a mid atlantic swim
More anon

6th December 2008

Well it's Saturday morning and we are 1/3 of the way over only another 1330 miles to go!  We had dorado or Mahi Mahi each of the first three days and then we scooped  a big tuna which we have been trying to eat ever since without total success!  So fishing is suspended until further notice. We are on a radio schedule with a few of the nearby boats most of which seem to be faster than we are but steel boats are usually a little slower due to the weight, especially in very light conditions. The last
few days have been dull and cloudy so we haven't had much value out of the solar panels but its sunny today so perhaps we will get the batteries charged up a bit more, otherwise we may even have to think about starting the engine for a bit!!
Yesterday (Friday) we found that all the bread from Mindelo was spoiled and mouldy so it had to go to see neptune and Marion started baking commencing with good old soda bread, today she has produced a couple of loaves so that's a relief!.  Speed was way down during the night last night and having heard that "Walruss" had experienced 40 kt squalls in this area yesterday we kept the reef in overnight as a precaution. We had a quiet night in any case and today we have all the reefs out and are doing 5.5kts goosewinged ie one sail either side of the boat.
Our days' runs since Wednesday have been:
Thursday 129 miles
Friday  125 miles
Saturday 102 miles
 

3rd December 2008 - Atlantic crossing days one to three

We weighed anchor in mindelo after Mick had done a check on the rigging up the mast. We sailed past a little ferry at anchor called the Smyrl and we reckoned it must have come from the Faroes and been the first perhaps of the Smyrl line!
The wind was fresh force 6 in the mindelo channel and gave us a brisk send off so we kept well south of San Antao to avoid getting into the wind shadow , we avoided the worst of the wind shadow but encountered a wicked cross sea south of the island where the the seas from the East and those from the west of the island met. It was here we caught our first Dorado a medium sized male so that was supper sorted.
  After that a cry from Mick announced the vane steering oar had fallen off fortunately it was secured by a safety line and we were able to haul it aboard in short order. Then the work began to strip it and fit a new safety tube hanging over the stern with theboat leppin about in the confused seas.In any case it was soon done and nothing fell overboard so all was well. The paddle had recieved a dunder from another boat "Merlin's Flyte" in the marina at La Gomera and as far as we could see the only
damage had been  a large dinge in the safety tube but the impact had obviously broken the safety tube inside its support, and the leading edge of the paddle was pretty well beat up too!
After that the wind and seas settled down and for the last few days we have had easterly wind of around 12 knots on average Each day so far has brought us another dorado except wednesday when we caught a big Skipjack tuna He weighed in at 8Kgs and 0.75 metres long so that will keep us in fish for a good while now.
Days runs
Monday    117 miles
Tuesday  107 miles
Wednesday 118 miles
Conditions here are cloudy bright, air temp 28c, sea temp 25c.
 

2nd December 2008 - Cape Verde Islands Part One

We anchored in Palmiera on the island of Sal around noon on Friday (20th nov). The first job  to do after a dive to check the anchor was secure, was to "Clear in" this involved going ashore with the ships papers and passports and finding the port control office, which had moved! after completing a few forms in Portuguese we had clearance for a charge of 500$escudos, about 5 euros! A visit to the immigration police relieved us of a further 4 Euros and saw our passports stamped.
Much in the town had changed since our last visit, but much remained the same. The Water is still provided in the town "Fontana" but now there is apparently no charge so we were able to fill drums and top up Balu's water tanks. We got some frozen chicken  some wine and vegetables for our dinner on board and it was back on board for the evening meal. However before dining we had to move from our anchored position to allow room for a ship maneuvering to the quay.
Next day the crew went ashore to go to the main town of Escargos and tackle the cash machine, beers, and to get some more supplies the Skipper stayed aboard and did a few chores.
In the afternoon the guys went ashore to clear out and have a beer so we could head down the coast to Mordiera bay for some swimming and snorkelling.
Saturday morning we carefully weighed anchor ( we were anchored very close to the oil pipeline!) and were on our way to Mordeira bay. The bay was deserted so we picked our spot, anchored and watched a osprey fishing for its dinner.
The boys went for a dive and although the underwater visibility was not as good as we had hoped for it was ten metres and there was a lot of fishlife to see.It the evening we had our evening meal as the sun set ( without a green flash!) and we weighed anchor again and were off to the island of San Nicholau.